Uniglide

[Apocalypse]

Motor manufacturers will never use any of these products from factory. It’s not in their best interest. Why would they try and prolong the lifespan of an engine therefore taking away profits?

I say these products can only benefit us. Use it. Don’t use it. It’s ultimately your choice.

this is a good old conspiracy theory

It's well and truly in a manufacturers best interest to sell a reliable long lasting car .

It's only in SA that we have the motor plan with a new car

Even then, service interval and reliability is a major consideration.

A lot of people worry about resale value and a car that will do a million km will have a better resale value at 200 000km than a car renowned for dumping it's crank at that kind of mileage.

When you talk about Commercial vehicles most operators are looking at cost of ownership and down time over 1 000 000 km or more. This is why - for instance - Ford just released an enormous push rod V8 gas engine - because over the lifespan of the vehicle it's cheaper and more reliable than a diesel.

Manufacturers will do anything to improve longevity, reliability , power output and / or fuel consumption .

So the old wive's tale of 'once it's out of warranty they don't give a shit isn't really true for most manufacturers...

[henris]

Motor manufacturers will never use any of these products from factory. It’s not in their best interest. Why would they try and prolong the lifespan of an engine therefore taking away profits?

I say these products can only benefit us. Use it. Don’t use it. It’s ultimately your choice.

This is exactly what we found. Talk to UDF. They have had the same response.
Spoke to a pal a while back and he had the same response. His bosses told him straight, the dealer needs the work in the workshop.

[Chris Stoffel]

Strange. People look at these web sites that give the ratings of most reliable vehicles. J.D. Something? And they are influenced by that rating. They brag about it if their car has a good rating. Reliability and long life engines and no rust is important.

[Chris Stoffel]

The only way to test Uniglide, Prolong, Slick 50 or any other snake oil is to get 200 brand new engines. Fill op 100 with snake oil and 100 with real oil.
Put the engines under load and run them for 3 000 hours. Then see what is what.
Or some kinda test like that. I don't know much about these things.

[Oppies3800]

The only way to test Uniglide, Prolong, Slick 50 or any other snake oil is to get 200 brand new engines. Fill op 100 with snake oil and 100 with real oil.
Put the engines under load and run them for 3 000 hours. Then see what is what.
Or some kinda test like that. I don't know much about these things.

The people doing the test evaluation should not know which is standard and which is snakeoil.

Should make for interesting comments

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

[Chris Stoffel]

The only way to test Uniglide, Prolong, Slick 50 or any other snake oil is to get 200 brand new engines. Fill op 100 with snake oil and 100 with real oil.
Put the engines under load and run them for 3 000 hours. Then see what is what.
Or some kinda test like that. I don't know much about these things.

The people doing the test evaluation should not know which is standard and which is snakeoil.

Should make for interesting comments

Sent from my SM-A705FN using Tapatalk

Yes. And they should use proper engines. Real manly engines, like Jimny engines.

[Ginger]

I have not been around but I have decided that I should post something regarding this.

Some years ago I had an R32. It smoked a little bit, when you take your foot off the accellerator, so the issue was just valve stem seals. So I went with some prolong. That was the oil to have in your car, after all, the tv said so.

It did not stop smoking immediately., but after around a week it actually did. And it only did so from oil starvation.

In my mind the car suddenly went very well... well, for about another 3000 km when 3 bigends and a main suddenly failed. Engine moer toe. When we drained oil, there was a black sludge of about 500ml that came out first, and only after that, the oil. The filter was also just one pot of sludge. In the end I had to get a new shortblock sub, because the bearings seized on the crank and started turning in the block.


I will NEVER use aditives again, unless it is specifically advised by the manufacturer, like for instance the friction modifier on the diffs of my jeep. I will for the rest of my days advise against it. Lessons learned

[Mad Manny]

The post above us a great example of tge 'Anecdotal Evidence' Apoc was referring to....
Guy uses Prolong to try fix his valve stem seals and then blames Prolong, then uses his Prolong experiance to diss a product that isnt Prolong...

As scientific as saying open toe'd shoes spread Covid...

[Ginger]

MSDS for both products will be the only thing that will convince me that it is not the exact same thing


And even then I will tell you to stay the F U C K away.

[Oppies3800]

Damn Porra

[henris]

I have not been around but I have decided that I should post something regarding this.

Some years ago I had an R32. It smoked a little bit, when you take your foot off the accellerator, so the issue was just valve stem seals. So I went with some prolong. That was the oil to have in your car, after all, the tv said so.

It did not stop smoking immediately., but after around a week it actually did. And it only did so from oil starvation.

In my mind the car suddenly went very well... well, for about another 3000 km when 3 bigends and a main suddenly failed. Engine moer toe. When we drained oil, there was a black sludge of about 500ml that came out first, and only after that, the oil. The filter was also just one pot of sludge. In the end I had to get a new shortblock sub, because the bearings seized on the crank and started turning in the block.


I will NEVER use aditives again, unless it is specifically advised by the manufacturer, like for instance the friction modifier on the diffs of my jeep. I will for the rest of my days advise against it. Lessons learned

Let me just add something here.
The sludge was there all along. The Prolong just loosened it.
Most of these additives have have a de-sludging agent. Thus it wlll dissolve the sludge. But big chunks will come loose and clog things.

Just one thing to keep in mind, is that most of these additives just have a lot of chlorine. Works well to make things slippery, but is extremely acidic.

The Uniglide is not. We have a TBN(PH) of 7.

[henris]

MSDS for both products will be the only thing that will convince me that it is not the exact same thing


And even then I will tell you to stay the F U C K away.

The updated ones are on the way. The tribologist is just taking her time about it.

[KurtG]

MSDS for both products will be the only thing that will convince me that it is not the exact same thing


And even then I will tell you to stay the F U C K away.

The updated ones are on the way. The tribologist is just taking her time about it.

I am looking forward to when the Tribilogist has spoken and we can see the MSDS

[Mad Manny]

I don't know much about these things.

After bustin' HenriS balls for 3 days you finally admit this ???

[henris]

I don't know much about these things.

After bustin' HenriS balls for 3 days you finally admit this ???

Curiosity killed the cat. Or should it rather be, "egg on the face"