Baboons pass 2025

[Trolly Fan]

Hi guys

I will draft as much as I can today and tomorrow and post.
Muller has all the picture and video material. It will take some work to edit, and we all have day jobs, so please be patient.

In short, this was probably the toughest 4x4 weekend I have had in 15 years of off road driving.
Tougher than the time in 2018 when 4 Patrols were pulling 4 other Patrols through two days of mud and sludge on the Selinda transit road in Botswana. Which takes some doing.
In short, I will not go again unless all vehicles have winches, and no-one is on anything less than 35 inches (except maybe some plucky SJs).
In 2017 I drove Baboons with 5 other Patrols and one Rubicon. We were all on 33" and the Rubi on 35". We finished it then in 8,5 hours.
Those days are gone. It is too washed out and rocks exposed.

This time it took us 22/23 hours in total.

This is not only due to the rocks being more exposed, lots and lots of tire issues, and a recovery for the ages...

[Trolly Fan]

At last count, all are safe home again, except for Marlan who in Ladybrand and mechanic on his way to him.

[Rechardt]

Just looking at some of the footage and chatting to the guys. It's going to be one helluva trip report.

Sent from my SM-G780G using Tapatalk

[Trolly Fan]

The plan is to do the trip for 11 - 15 May, but at the moment we are 2 vehicles short. Have until Friday, otherwise we will need to cancel it...

Bogaards,
I have a customer for you, It is a Patrol on 37"
Will send you a PM.

[Bogaards]

The plan is to do the trip for 11 - 15 May, but at the moment we are 2 vehicles short. Have until Friday, otherwise we will need to cancel it...

Bogaards,
I have a customer for you, It is a Patrol on 37"
Will send you a PM.

Thank you
(Not really for me, for Halfway Toyota Fourways who arranges it, but the trip will go on the channel)

[Trolly Fan]

The Trip report

Okay, so what happened here

Day 1:

We started as 7 vehicles.

I had the vehicle order all worked out. The smaller tires were on 2, 4 and 6. Sandwiched by the bigger tires on 1, 3, 5 and 7. This way we can recover forward, and backward, and also help set the pace to suit all.

1. Safari on 35” (Alex)
2. Ford bakkie on 32” (Rem and David)
3. Rubicon on 37 (Muller, Wendy and Noalee)
4. Hilux on 32” (Rechardt)
5. Prado on 35” (Marlan)
6. FJ on 32” (Abu)
7. Rubicon on 37 Leon & Michelle

All were happy, and after a great breakfast (by the very friendly and hospitable staff at Ramabanta Trading Post), and the pre-drive briefing, we were off.

After big worries about the weather, the sun was out and predicted to remain so in the foreseeable future. Nights were cool, but in day-time we were in T shirts. Blue skies and fantastic vistas of the Maluti mountains surrounded us.
We drove the very first section of Baboons. Not one km off the road we had our first casually. Anbu’s one sidewall got cut. Not a good start. We could not even plug it. One tire down. Next Rem’s tire got cut. Not yet 2 km into the pass. We plugged it, but the plugs would not hold. So we replugged, being reluctant to replace the tire just yet (too early for that). This is where I started to lose count how many times we stopped. But in one of those times, I saw Rechardt’s bonnet is opened. His one engine munt is broken and is turning around. We are down to six.
After the umpteenth time of trying to fix Rem’s tire, he and co driver David decided to turn around. We heard afterwards they stopped 7 times again going down those first 2 kms refixing the tire and then replaced to their spare once back down again. We were down to 5.
This was still early days distance wise, but I realised then, we are ono for two very long days. Rechardt in his foresight offered his spare to Abu which was now on his FJ’s roof (more on that later).

Then only we got to start with some of the business-end sections of Baboons’ rock crawling and climbing. Progress was though still slow. The FJ had to be assisted once (I think) where the 32” tires bottomed out. But then on a next tricky section, his right front tire de-beaded. It was a kind of horrible klap sound. I do not think we have a picture but the rubber was completely folded over. Luckily as we jacked up the car, the rubber just flipped back up again and managed to reinflate it.
It was difficult to judge how far we got that day, but we drove until just before sunset, and decided to make camp on a rare flat section of the pass. But had an amazing view to camp on and made a fire for dinner.
The chief of the area (Thaba Poocha, I think) visited us the next morning. He spoke zero English, but his hand sign and friendly gestures made it clear that as much as we were welcome, the stay is not for free. So, I felt it is only fair that we pay him a fee.

To be continued...

[Trolly Fan]

Day 2:
We left the next morning at 8:20 in good spirits that we will make up for lost time. The pass is difficult, but progress was good. The pass is just fine on the flat sections, but then you get the Up sections. This is where it had deteriorated significantly from what I can recall on my first Baboons trip in 2017. The impact of water erosion is bad where the incline is steep. Lots of loose stones, and technical line reading, and switchbacks. There is no option to stop. As the rocks are loose on pull away. So, you have to walk the whole section to plan your drive, as you keep packing rocks in the right places. Then keep it steady all the way through to avoid the rocks from spinning under the tires, until you are at the top.
At two points some entrepreneurial shepherds with an axe saw us coming from a distance. They already started packing rocks as we approached. I do not believe in handouts, but an honest fee for services rendered is only fair, which is what they got.

Then things started to go South
Marlan’s rear diff started to ‘clack’. This was after about three hours driving, and we were nowhere near the ‘day-1 sleep over point’?! The clacking sound progressed into no drive on the rear axle. Front wheel drive is no good on Baboons, and the Prado got strapped to Muller’s Jeep. We towed a tad more to a flat section and needed to make a decision. Even though Marlan had a set of spider gears for the rear diff, we collectively knew barely enough how to replace them, save to say, it would have required taking our both side shafts before even opening the diff. At a bare minimum it would have taken us 4 hours to do, with a questionable chance of success. That’s option 1. Option 2 was to take off the propshaft and tow the Prado. Option 3 would have been to leave the Prado with the local chief and come back again at some later point, with someone that knows how to fix it. Given how much hard work it took to get to this point, we decided on option 2.

Vehicle order was Me, then Muller with Marlan in tow, then Abu and then Leon taking the rear. We managed to tow the Prado past the ‘day-1 sleep over point’ and we found a spot where we could change vehicle order, since I knew what lied ahead…
So Leon with his Jeep in front, to allow two winches in front of the Prado, and I drop to the back to help the FJ if needed. This turned out to be a crucial decision. And changing vehicle order later on would have been impossible.

For those who know Baboons, there are a few sketchy sections (“gnarly” as the Ozzies would say) once you go over the ‘neck’ of the mountain towards Goliath’s rock. A few very sharp turns. The first preceded by a big exit steps. The second tight turn is right on a cliff. You literally need to trust you spotter with your life. I recall some of this from the 2017 trip, but being more washed out, there is just les room for error. Secondly, the car being towed does not exactly have complete freedom to choose his line. This is where we decided to start using the Prado’s winch and not rope alone. If the Prado did not have a winch, this recovery would not have been possible. It is much more controlled, but also a lot slower.

To be continued....

[Trolly Fan]

Fuel Starving:
From this point, to the last turn, before we get to Goliath’s rock, there are a lot of big rocks to navigate. At one such point, Toro (the Safari Patrol hybrid I drive) stalled, and won’t start. Leon, understanding old school diesels manage to diagnose the problem. There was an airlock. We managed to pump diesel through again, but the airlock had a cause. We concluded later that the diesel filter was clogged, but for now my power was just low and idling uneven.

Pulling the Prado back onto the path:
Just before the last bend before Goliath’s rock the FJ got off its line and into a sketchy position. Being at the back I could pull him straight again. But in front of us, the Prado also slipped off the side of the path and Muller with his Jeep tried all he could, but could not pull him back onto the path again. Muller drove up the one side of the mountain to get the Prado to winch itself straight, with winch and the Prado’s frontwheels wheel turning, now movement, until there was a loud clang. Somehow, both front CVs of the Prado snapped. Now it had NO drive. The Prado just became a 2,5ton dead weight.

It was too heavy for the Jeep. Then we tried to winch it from a rock. The first rock moved, but another rock further up was steady enough, and we managed to winch the Prado back onto the road. But what to do with this 2,5ton dead weight with Goliath’s rock still to climb.

Goliath’s Rock:
Now this is where having the two Jeeps in front became crucial. Once the first Jeep was up, it was tied to Muller’s Jeep, with Marlan connected to Muller’s Jeep. A three-way train. Very, very slowly the two jeeps crawled with the 2,5 ton dead weight in tow and winches working. (Sidebar: Now please keyboard warriors, you were not there. Save to say, we duly considered all options).

Now I thought we are done. We were not….
Next up was Abu’s FJ. Lack of overall clearance made it difficult. Compared to 8 years ago, the approach to the rock steepened, and smaller tires cannot climb it without some rock packing. Repacked, repacked again, and eventually up-up and away she went.
Toro is next to climb. This is where I realised I am lacking a lot of horses. Every time I got up half way, the engine died. I simply did not have the horses anymore. On my forth or fifth attempt I belted it. I am not sure if anyone filmed it. That is to be seen from Muller’s video, If you do see it, you may conclude that I drive like a real moron. But I had no choice. I simply did not have the horses to crawl it. It was very risky and uncontrolled, but I made it up. In the process, with a badly warn starter key socket, my keys fell out, presumably out of the car, as I could not find it. Luckily, I had a spare with me in the car. As I am writing this, I still cannot find the key. So, it probably sits on Goliath’s rock somewhere.

To be continued...

[Trolly Fan]

The night drive:
It was getting dark quickly, and as the sun withers, the cold came. We did not plan or pay for a night drive. This one was given to us for free by Baboons. About 80 meters above Goliaths rock is a sharp turn to the right, and a big rock on the turn. We cannot tow the Prado around it. It is not a flat section either. So the two jeeps remain in tow. Now we se the distance on the winch between the Jeep’s rear and the Prado very short. About on1 meter. Marlan on the prad has to rev up his engne to keep the winch working and keep foot on the break when not winching. Leon operates the winch from outside. Muller in his car, and Leon’s better half (Michelle) on the front Jeep. Everyone has to work in concert. Leon winches in, Marlan takes foot of the break, until the 50cm or so is gained. Then Marlan sits on breaks. Leon extends the winch line. Muller moves forward, and then Michelle moves forward with the first Jeep. Then, rinse-repeat. Inch-by-inch, we get the Prado around the corner. This one turn took us easily 45 minutes.

Tire cuts and recoveries:
The path starts to look clearer, but it is dark, and the Prado cannot choose his own line. Right back tire valve on the Prado is gone. High-lift out, spanners out. Now we are all tired, and it is dark. A bad combination for operating the High-lift. But experienced hands ensured no injuries.
A few minutes later, again…This time the front right tire. The end according to the map is tantalisingly close. But we felt still very far from it. We are all tired, hungry and cold.
We do not have another matching tire. This is where Rechardt’s tire came in use. Remember that friend we last saw the prior morning? It felt like ages ago. Rechardt donated his one spare to us for the trip. The Prado does not look so cool with one small tire, but a dead weight moves a lot better on wheels, even if they are not all the same size.
Now we get to the very end. We could already see the car lights on the tarmac. But Baboons would not lose its grip on us without a fight to the very end. Navigating past the deep dongas in the dark in the final section of Baboons is tricky. Abu’s FJ bottomed out again. I pulled him out again. And off we go again.

Tarmac:
And then there was tarmac. Unlock hubs and off toward Semonkong lodge. A wonderfully hospitable guesthouse. Toro still had very little horses, and there was an annoying rattle when I accelerate. I was to learn the next day why…

To be continued...

[Trolly Fan]

Trip back home:
Abu’s FJ was drivable, albeit with a very fubar exhaust. He left first and got home safely. We greeted Marlan who was arranging a flatbed for his Prado to be picked up from Semonkong. So, the Patrol and two Jeeps left Semonkong at around 11am. The tar road takes you back past Ramabanta Trading post (the starting point) and past Roma, Maseru and the gate (side bar: the tar road between Semonkong and Rammabanta incudes steep ups and downs and very sharp turns that does not always have warning signs. Travelling this in a hurry would be dangerous, and even under normal driving is hard on your breaks on the downhills). Breaking on the downhills at altitude can cause the breakfluid to start to boil. In fact, one of the Jeeps showed a bit of “steam” coming of the back of a wheel on a downhill, which could have been boiling breakfluid. That said, that was the sum total of the issues if any, that the two Jeeps showed on this trip.

As for Toro:
After Leon helped me replace the diesel filter, I got power back. But the rear diff is damaged and leaks oil at a rate of about one drip every three seconds. But I had no idea for how long this had been dripping, and therefore how much oil was left in it. Then, on our return, just as we entered SA, I smelled burning metal. My first thought was the rear diff, but actually, by some fluke, it was the prop shaft universal (back side) that started to seize. As I got out to investigate, I heard Muller on the radio stating that it burns! When I looked underneath, it was just smoke. No fire. Muller helped me take off the shaft, and I drove in 4H=’front wheel’ drive. Then the horrible sound of metal on metal started. A worn engine mounting.

As for the seized universal on the propshaft, I suspect it was a blessing in disguise, as it allowed me to drive in ‘front-wheel drive’, while the rear diff continued to leak. It can run more empty (not completely empty) and still remain driveable, provided there is no torque applied to the diff.
The Jeeps went home with no issues.

Some reflections:
As far as I know, no vehicle that had no drive has been recovered from Baboons until now. But let me know if this has been done before.
Without the cool, calm, collected mentality, and the combined experience of the two Jeep drivers (Leon and Muller and the patience and emotional intelligence of their ‘better-halves’), the recovery of the Prado would not have been possible. Some really stressed scenarios, and overall fatigue, mentally and physically, would have made a loss of temper perfectly understandable. But none of that happened, which says a lot for the character of the people in this group.

Our end destination after day 2 was Semonkong lodge. Their restaurant usually closes at 8. I managed to call them when we were still on our way through the last section of Baboons in the dark, to let them know we are still coming but will be late. But the signal was weak. I do not know how much of that they heard. We arrived at 9:20 pm not knowing what to expect. The best we hoped for was to still collect the keys to our rooms. Instead, they stayed up for us, Kept the restaurant open, and pre-heated our rooms with wood fired chimneys in the rondawels. They were super friendly and hospitable. Really excellent service and good value.

[Rem]

Thanks for the trip update Alex, having been with you guys for only five hours I was dying to hear the details, knowing a little of the conditions and seeing some of the videos I can only say that It must have taken a herculean effort to get everyone (and every vehicle) out of there! Well done to the guys that finished and the team work and help demonstrated to all, especially to Dave and I for our short participation. One day I'll have to revisit this challenge, but I don't think the F... Ordentlikke Ry Ding will be with me!

[Trolly Fan]

[Anthony Forgey]

Wow! what a trip! and what a trip report! excellent work keeping clear heads in a very stressful and dangerous conditions!

[Mad Manny]

Outstanding report, outstanding effort by everyone, outstanding spirit and camaraderie.
Rem and Rechard ~ this wasn't your trip. But well done for just being there.
To Alex and the rest, really remarkable.
Well done.
We are all very proud of all of you!!!

[Martin de Jager]

Wow, I always maintained that the mountain was dynamic, changed day by day. For one, I wonder how the Jimny would have faired considering the make of this team that battled for two days. Bad luck was following around every corner. I am glad you made it home. What an experience.