Overlanding Trip - Namibia
Posted: Thu May 08, 2025 12:31 pm
Trip report Namibia
Here is a short trip report after visiting Namibia for the first time and some of my findings:
Trip itself:
The convoy consisted of two vehicles, my trusty but thirsty Sussiebussie (Fortuner V6) and a new Mahindra Scorpio N series 4xplore.
The trip was 21 days long where we explored the center to southern part of Namibia (Windhoek down).
After leaving Gauteng, we entered at Skildpadsnek into Botswana on our way to sleep over at Jwaneng(Meyers guesthouse 10/10), stayed the night, left early morning to Ghanzi (Plot 19 10/10). On the way there visiting some salt pans along our route. The Salt pan at Sekoma was particularly full after the good rain they got this season, well worth the stop. After a good night’s rest is was onto Windhoek where we would stay over again. Getting through Buitepos on Botswana side was an absolute breeze, then eager to go to Namibia the first time, was met with an annoying amount of incompetency at Namibia’s side, where the was absolute chaos, confusion and paperwork to be filled in (the irony is, that Botswana and Namibia share the same building but worlds apart in terms of service and friendliness.) Anyway, 45minutes later we were through.
Arriving in Windhoek nice and early we went to do all the tourist places as we would depart the next morning to Swakopmund. Went to the famous churches, statues and ending the night at Joe’s Beer house! Now what a treat, when in Windhoek GO to Joe’s Beer House, phenomenal food and atmosphere!
Next morning out to Swakopmund where we would spend 6 nights. Seeing as Spitskoppe could be part of our roue, we decided to go along the B2, turn of onto the D1918 and head to Spitskoppe. The dirt road getting off from the B2 was really not well maintained and has not seen a scraper in a while, that with people not knowing how to drive on dirt road, ended up with bad corrugations. Exited to see spitskoppe, was slapped with a surprising fee of R160 per person and R80 per child, with an additional fee of R60 per vehicle, hence the two vehicles, 4adults and 2children would amount to R920! With time not being on our side and what I believe to be an absurd amount of money for a day pass, we decided to rather drive around Spitskoppe (which is completely fenced off). If one would want to visit Spitskoppe, make sure you rather stay over as it is far from anything and outside the fence you will be met with MANY street entrepreneurs running towards your vehicle, selling anything from stones to firewood. Being a buckle list item, but also seeing the cost and attitude of the place, I will rather look at some photos. Continued to Henties on the D1918, which was superbly maintained from there and could easily drive the maximum speed of 100km/h, down to Swakopmund. This marked the 2000km mark by then
Finally at Swakopmund we could unload, as by that time we have been on the road for 4 days (3 nights). Next morning, we met up with an old friend, Andre Nolte, massive 4x4 enthusiast with more projects and vehicles than Tinus and Desmond combined. What a great guy, showing us the way to “Sout Gat” or as I heard the “Dooie see” or “Dead see” which is an abandoned incline mine where there is water with a massive salt content. This is a must do when in that area, just beware of any open wound or getting it in your eyes, and make sure to take enough fresh water to rinse yourself off afterwards. What an interesting feeling to float to such an extend that you can just lay there and half your body is floating…
Then Andre took us too a little-known gem called Pasella lodge, which is just random little collection of weird and wonderful signs, and old bath tub, and home made artifacts of any kind, really cool place to visit, with a longdrop and wild camping options. Ending a great day in Henties with a beer.
Heading back the Mahindra showed a malfunction on its 4x4 sytem and I decided to hop in there and gave the keys to my vehicle, to my wife. Heading back to Swakopmund we encountered some police presence, now it is important to note this was easter weekend. Anyway, we see them, reduce speed from around 90km/h to around 50-60km/h, not seeing any sign that we must pull off, only a cone in the center lane, we continued on our way, just to be chased by a 76 series cruiser, lights flashing, we pull of to the side of the road, driver licenses confiscated and we had to follow the traffic police back to the “roadblock”. Upon arrival we were told that a cone in the road is a roadblock in Namibia, which we did not stop and were issued a R1500 fine per vehicle payable cash only at the police station… What a crap ending to a wonderful day spent (and by the way on my birthday) … To say the least the Police station in Swakopmund was also as unfriendly as they come… More on that later…
Whilst in Swakopmund we decided to do the welwitschia route where 1500-year-old welwitschias can be seen and the Moon Landscapes. Worth the visit, but again you need to get a permit to drive the road(Another R500 or so gone), But whilst on the route we discovered this great Goanikontes Restaurant filled with people. Having enough time on our hands that day, driving in the Swakop river, go and visit the flintstones caves. 4x4 is a must and the sussiebussie hit the limiter more than once getting in and out of the river at some spots, massive fun and a great end destination to have a coffee break. Will definitely revisit the caves. Rest of the time was exploring Swakop, driving some dunes between Swakop and Langstrand (Free of charge, just get your ORV permit). Loads of fun, and some of them scary shit to drive, but following “old” tracks from vehicles and quads, made it a lot easier and safer to drive. Maybe not the best idea to go in as a single vehicle should something happen, but highly recommended place to play! Also did some fishing on Mile 14, all great fun and great places to see in and around Swakopmund. Could have stayed even longer.
Onwards and down to Dune 7 heading towards our next destination (Solitaire). As I will discuss later, expect to pay again to visit Dune 7. Nice hike and quite a sturdy dune to climb, but amazing view from the top. Nice adventure, and kids loved it!
Next day we head to Soussousvlei to see the “Dooie Vlei” and Dune 40 &45. Arrive at reception, pay again…. Then drive 60km/h on tar for 60km length then you have 5km of “thick” sand to get to the starting point of a 2km hike to the Dooie Vlei. Note this last 5km is only permissible and accessible by 4x4. Nothing major, but the sand is soft. If you do not have a 4x4, there are game viewing trucks and bakkies leaving every now and then to hop onto (not sure if there is a fee payable, but I would believe so). Great place to visit and well worth while! Make sure you are fit, as this needs to be taken slowly, 4km of sand can get to you, and its hot! No water points are available, make sure to take enough, and have spare in the vehicle. We then visited Sesriem Canyon, and were fortunate to still see it with large amounts of water in it.
Time to head to Maltehohe where we will sleep that night. Do yourself a favour, drive past! Not impressed, and everything is decaying there. Only place worth a visit may be the Maltehohe Hotel. We opted only to stay one night, then went to Andre who farms in Mariental for the remaining time we had booked in Maltehohe.
Mariental, Andre took us around the farms, showed us the methods of irrigation, took us to Hadap dam, which was at 77% capacity although they typically don’t go over 70%, but have seen lows the past few years of 4%, very interesting visit, but the place has not seen any maintenance on its accommodation and camping facilities in many years. Can see it was the place to be many years ago, but now the wild grass stands half n meter tall where the camp grounds were (Most of them atleast)
Next stop, Keetmanshoop, not much to the town itself. Next morning, we set out to see the quiver tree Forest on the M29 and the giant’s playground, which is quite impressive to see. Be sure to make your payments at the quiver tree rest camp beforehand… Good roads and worth the visit.
Next day off again to Grunau (passing Naute dam that was at 107.6% capacity (27 April 2025)). Spend the next 3 days just outside of Grunau at the “White house”, 10/10 and highly recommended, old style farm house and cleanest campsites on the whole trip. We used this as a beacon to visit the Fish River canyon, Ais Ais, and all the lodges and especially the Canyon Roadhouse. Fish river Canyon is well worth the visit, expect to pay R100 per person, R50 per child and R50 per vehicle. What will you get for this? A great view of what nature gave us, and that is it. No road maintenance, no water, no bathroom facilities, terrible road condition. But the view of the Fish River Canyon (second largest in the world) makes it worth while and I will go again. Drove to Ais-Ais to see the hotsprings, complete waste of time and money, they place is falling apart and looking like an ATKV oord that
From there it was time to leave Namibia and went trough Ariamsvlei border post, which was a breeze. Next stop Khamkirri (Kakamas region). Great camp site, tented camps and chalets available. The orange river was running at 3500 cubecs when we were there, and were told we had to leave early on the day of checkout, because they need to evacuate the tented camps, as they would start flooding in the next two days. They were not wrong! Our stoep was one foot, in height, away from flooding the day we left. Great place 10/10. We proceeded to see the augrabies falls. Catching them in all their glory! Water raining as we looked what 3740 cubecs looked like in other words 3740 cubic meter of water per second, 3.74Million liters per second! Decided on the route less travelled and went back on the north western route to Riemvasmaak to see the hotsprings and Norbert’s koffie shop (from voetspore). Note the road leading there is not platkar friendly and a raised vehicle is required to visit the hotsprings. Very nice, clean and very friendly visit, 10/10. Great visit UNTIL I saw the most horrific white looking, color coded white bumper fortuner driving in the opposite direction with a conqueror trailer in tow, it was truly a porra in the vehicle, not greeting me a madman named Manny drove past me, not even greeting… Maybe better that way…
Then my time was up, time to head back home, stop over in Vryburg on our way.
Namibia to be discussed in the next section
Here is a short trip report after visiting Namibia for the first time and some of my findings:
Trip itself:
The convoy consisted of two vehicles, my trusty but thirsty Sussiebussie (Fortuner V6) and a new Mahindra Scorpio N series 4xplore.
The trip was 21 days long where we explored the center to southern part of Namibia (Windhoek down).
Arriving in Windhoek nice and early we went to do all the tourist places as we would depart the next morning to Swakopmund. Went to the famous churches, statues and ending the night at Joe’s Beer house! Now what a treat, when in Windhoek GO to Joe’s Beer House, phenomenal food and atmosphere!
Next morning out to Swakopmund where we would spend 6 nights. Seeing as Spitskoppe could be part of our roue, we decided to go along the B2, turn of onto the D1918 and head to Spitskoppe. The dirt road getting off from the B2 was really not well maintained and has not seen a scraper in a while, that with people not knowing how to drive on dirt road, ended up with bad corrugations. Exited to see spitskoppe, was slapped with a surprising fee of R160 per person and R80 per child, with an additional fee of R60 per vehicle, hence the two vehicles, 4adults and 2children would amount to R920! With time not being on our side and what I believe to be an absurd amount of money for a day pass, we decided to rather drive around Spitskoppe (which is completely fenced off). If one would want to visit Spitskoppe, make sure you rather stay over as it is far from anything and outside the fence you will be met with MANY street entrepreneurs running towards your vehicle, selling anything from stones to firewood. Being a buckle list item, but also seeing the cost and attitude of the place, I will rather look at some photos. Continued to Henties on the D1918, which was superbly maintained from there and could easily drive the maximum speed of 100km/h, down to Swakopmund. This marked the 2000km mark by then
Finally at Swakopmund we could unload, as by that time we have been on the road for 4 days (3 nights). Next morning, we met up with an old friend, Andre Nolte, massive 4x4 enthusiast with more projects and vehicles than Tinus and Desmond combined. What a great guy, showing us the way to “Sout Gat” or as I heard the “Dooie see” or “Dead see” which is an abandoned incline mine where there is water with a massive salt content. This is a must do when in that area, just beware of any open wound or getting it in your eyes, and make sure to take enough fresh water to rinse yourself off afterwards. What an interesting feeling to float to such an extend that you can just lay there and half your body is floating…
Then Andre took us too a little-known gem called Pasella lodge, which is just random little collection of weird and wonderful signs, and old bath tub, and home made artifacts of any kind, really cool place to visit, with a longdrop and wild camping options. Ending a great day in Henties with a beer.
Heading back the Mahindra showed a malfunction on its 4x4 sytem and I decided to hop in there and gave the keys to my vehicle, to my wife. Heading back to Swakopmund we encountered some police presence, now it is important to note this was easter weekend. Anyway, we see them, reduce speed from around 90km/h to around 50-60km/h, not seeing any sign that we must pull off, only a cone in the center lane, we continued on our way, just to be chased by a 76 series cruiser, lights flashing, we pull of to the side of the road, driver licenses confiscated and we had to follow the traffic police back to the “roadblock”. Upon arrival we were told that a cone in the road is a roadblock in Namibia, which we did not stop and were issued a R1500 fine per vehicle payable cash only at the police station… What a crap ending to a wonderful day spent (and by the way on my birthday) … To say the least the Police station in Swakopmund was also as unfriendly as they come… More on that later…
Next day we head to Soussousvlei to see the “Dooie Vlei” and Dune 40 &45. Arrive at reception, pay again…. Then drive 60km/h on tar for 60km length then you have 5km of “thick” sand to get to the starting point of a 2km hike to the Dooie Vlei. Note this last 5km is only permissible and accessible by 4x4. Nothing major, but the sand is soft. If you do not have a 4x4, there are game viewing trucks and bakkies leaving every now and then to hop onto (not sure if there is a fee payable, but I would believe so). Great place to visit and well worth while! Make sure you are fit, as this needs to be taken slowly, 4km of sand can get to you, and its hot! No water points are available, make sure to take enough, and have spare in the vehicle. We then visited Sesriem Canyon, and were fortunate to still see it with large amounts of water in it.
Mariental, Andre took us around the farms, showed us the methods of irrigation, took us to Hadap dam, which was at 77% capacity although they typically don’t go over 70%, but have seen lows the past few years of 4%, very interesting visit, but the place has not seen any maintenance on its accommodation and camping facilities in many years. Can see it was the place to be many years ago, but now the wild grass stands half n meter tall where the camp grounds were (Most of them atleast)
Next stop, Keetmanshoop, not much to the town itself. Next morning, we set out to see the quiver tree Forest on the M29 and the giant’s playground, which is quite impressive to see. Be sure to make your payments at the quiver tree rest camp beforehand… Good roads and worth the visit.
Namibia to be discussed in the next section