4x4 Action Group

Three reasons for this trip
1) It has been a bucket list trip for many years.
2) Moving to Mossel Bay made the wish a reality because it is so much closer from here.
3) I am a PASSES NUT!

We planned to miss the school holidays but be back before the 1st May "long weekend"

The huge rainstorms and floods made us delay departure by 5 days, and a good thing we did.

Day 1 Thurs 11 April:
Mossel Bay to Merveville.
A TV series was shot here years ago. I love checking such places out. Also read good things about the place.

Distance 380 km time 3h20 plus stops. All tar
Passes:
Roberson
Meiringspoort Kredouw
Witkranspoort

Stopped at De Rust for coffee, and Prince Albert for breakie and fuel top up.

Highlights:
Gamka River in flood.
Virtually no traffic.
Passed 8 identical 4x4s (make unknown, must be testing done here) all very dirty.

Merweville is a spotlessly clean town, over 100 years old, but absolutely no derelict buildings.

We booked into the quaintest guesthouse for one night.

I needed to find out what the road conditions were like to Sutherland. The local Dominee would surely know, as his constituency would include all the farmers. Unfortunately one farmer reported that 8 cars had passed that morning direction Merweville. So they came down the Rammelskop pass. And my guess it was the same gang of 8 we passed earlier. Going up would be dicey with a van, so the long way around would be safer.

I did, however, get a tour of the church and the clock tower. The old clock ticking away 100 years later but maintained by the Dominee and his brother.

The town was split into 2 for 4 days due the floods with the river rising more than a metre over the low level bridge.

Evening meal was prepared before we left home, so this was microwaved and chowed. Only one restaurant in town and it closes at 5.
Good shower and a good night's rest was had.

First photo shows the planned trip. This did change somewhat for various reasons, mainly taking drivable routes
Longish detour awaits us tomorrow.

At this point I must mention that the original trip T4A calculated about 2000 km trip. The first additional kms on the second day. From 106km to 240km.

After a fancy breakfast at Die Boekeklub Restaurant, we hit the main road out.

We backtracked on the beautiful tarred (recently, in 2015) road to the N1. 40 km and we passed one car.

Expecting a nose to tail traffic train on the N1, we are very surprised what turns out to be a very unfazed trip through to Laingsburg and Matjiesfontein. We take a look see through Matjiesfontein and it has remained unchanged for 25 years since we last passed through.

We cross the N1 onto the R354. Soon we are into the wind(ing) roads of the Roggeveld Mountains.

Wind indeed. Wind Towers going up all over. I guess at least 100 spread over about 10 km. An awesome sight to see these monsters! And the activity relating to construction. Cranes being transported. Bakkies and trucks. Almost the N1!

I stop a few times to take pictures of these animals and the beautiful road.

Further up the road, we enter the Verlatenkloof pass. Halfway up, we stop off at Tjol se Gat for a beer. A tiny pub run by Tjol (see photo), an institution to visit should you pass by. It was originally a toll house in use until 1907.

We leave and travel further up the pass, admittedly steep as I could not get more than 85 kph out of the Paj!

Soon after we arrive at Sutherland, and check in at Sterland, a campsite just before entering the town. An early braai is prepared, as we booked a stargazing presentation that started at 8 pm. It is cold! We take blankets with to wrap around us. And I have jarmies on and a jeanpant over.

The stargazing presentation is "eye opening"! We are given a brief history of the universe, and the definition of light years is repeated for those attending to grasp. We head outside to the telescopes to study the sky. I am not going into more detail now, if you do get to go to Sutherland, this is a must! We got to see that famous "Black Hole"!

It is cold! Into bed with winter jarmies, comforter, 2 fleece blankets and a duvet.

We awake after a good night's sleep to find frost on the fridge lid, and on the Paj's windscreen. It is 2 degrees at 8 am.

Today we visit the SALT (South African Large Telescope). It is the second largest in the Southern Hemisphere, the largest being in Chile. This one has 91 hex shaped mirrors fitted to a highly intriguing framework with actuators that allows each mirror to be adjusted perfectly for optimum reflection. This design also allows for any mirror to be removed and replaced with a refurbished one, thus the Telescope operation never gets interrupted. Awesome!

Time for lunch. The Borehole Restaurant is recommended. Their hamburgers look delicious, so we both have. Delicious they were! The decor is mostly transportation items. Two old series 2 Landys grace the entrance.

Back at Sterland we ask about the condition of the Ouberg Pass. The owner advises maybe not with the van in tow, as he does not know what the road conditions are like after the rains. Detour no 2 has to be planned.

Later another couple arrive. They are from George, and drove "the most terrible road from Ladismith to the N1".
Their rig is a Toyota Hilux single cab with an ABBA Camper on the back. We planned to go back the way they came, wanting to do Anysberg Game Reserve. I ask what speed they were able to maintain. 60 kph is the reply. Seriously bad road that must be! Anyway, their actual request is did we do the Ouberg Pass? Nope, we were going to do it, but we now have to head north to Middelpos, and down Gannaga Pass to get to Tankwa NP. We told them we would do Ouberg anyway the next day, just because it is there.

It looks to me that they do no trip planning at all, other than an A4 map book day-to-day! And I had done 2 months of planning!
But more on them later....

We have a snack due to tummies still full, showers and bed. Not cold tonight.

Day 3. Ouberg Pass! An absolute stunner! The road starts out running on the ridge of the mountain with the valley splayed out on both sides. Then the switch backs and more switch backs. Then driving on the edges. I rate it a grade 3, but graded after rain damage a 2. Still stunning from every angle. 30 minutes. At the bottom we start to make our way back.

An adventure motorcycle appears in the distance. Alone. We wave him past. He simply motors up and disappears within a few minutes. I also spot what looks to be a burgundy Defender about halfway down. When I see it again it has turned around and headed back up. Shame poor Defenders can't take it.

There is a flat area about halfway up where I take out the gas braai and we have a simple lunch.

Once on top of the pass we take a left turn that will take us to the R356 and back to Sutherland entering from the north. Very beautiful here. One river we cross bears evidence of the recent floods.

Braai is supper, showers and bed. No duvet needed, it is very pleasant.

Tomorrow we will be up early to head off to Middelpos and Tankwa.

Photo 1: the first detour.
Photo 2: Ouberg Pass and country loop
Photo 3: Tjol and me. Real old timer. Tjol, that is!
Photo 4: me thawing out in Sutherland that cold morning

Day 5 and 6: To Tankwa National Park for 2 nights.

The couple I mentioned previously seemed to be shadowing us. Their trip plan seemed to be "let's go to Sutherland and Tankwa" not having any idea of what to see and find out as they go along. We gave them feedback on Ouberg Pass. The lady says she cannot take passes and drop downs close the edge of the road. I then said they have 2 options:
Go back South to the R355 and head up North to the Park, or
Do Middelpos Gannaga and into the Park. I told them I had phoned Gannaga Lodge and they reported the pass had been graded and is good. They had no idea what they were in store for....

We break camp, Sue has made some padkos and Cuppachinos, and we head into town to fill up with diesel. I am not happy with the left front and I decide it needs to be changed out with the spare.

To get the back door open and remove the spare wheel, the extra spare has to be removed from the drawbar of the caravan. These guys misunderstand me, and they want to take the left front, remove the tyre, fit the extra spare, and just put the spare wheel back! Much waving and explaining is required to get it sorted.

That couple arrives to fill up. They are first doing SALT and then travelling to TKNP the same route as us. That means they only leave SALT ( which is 15km out of town on the Fraserburg road East), at about 12h30!

Today's trip should be about 4 hours. However, at the restaurant the waiter tells us they travel to Calvina via Fraserburg, because the road from Middelpos to Calvinia is "stukkend". Sounds like fun.

The road is in mediocre condition. We can travel no more than 60 kph, often having to slow right down for roadworks and rain damage.

Then drama! Sounded like someone playing the triangle, which quickly became a drum roll! I stop the rig and take a walk around. Left front rim has a brake disc retaining pin protruding from one opening. And that is the wheel they changed.

Off comes the extra spare tyre to access the back door to get to the jack and wheel spanner. Floor carpets are laid down to try keep me clean. Once the wheel is off, I examine the now arc shaped pin. Does not seem too bad, and between the ex trolley jack handle I use for leverage (thanks Paul) and a hole in the draw bar, I get it reasonably straight. Luckily I have some thin wire which is used to secure the pin again. Wheel gets fitted using bullet pins to help fit the wheel (thanks Paul), tighten up, jack down, pack up and we go again. One car passed us while we were stationary. Love these quiet places! Delayed for about 45 minutes. No rush.

Uneventful trip further, other than the rough roads. Tyres are at 1.5 bar but it still shakes.

In Middelpos we try to buy some Obies. Can you believe a "Hotel Off Sales" still exists?

The shaking continues until we start descending Gannaga Pass. Beautifully scraped, it another magic pass like Ouberg. We are entertained by extraordinary scenes around each corner. A troop of baboons race down a virtual vertical drop just in front of us. Papa is the last down, and within a wink they are gone.

Exiting the pass we enter the Park a few kms further. The roads are still rough. We clock in at reception. Very friendly in true SANPARKS tradition. Here you can buy nothing except wood. R40 for a reasonable size too!

Our last leg to the campsite is really rough. It's flat, but they made the road with broken concrete pieces. The campsite is a jewel. Private ablutions with a huge shower, separate toilet and separate kitchen. The water stinks though. Probably borehole water, which was confirmed when I saw the solar powered pump and water tanks hidden behind the hill. These could be seen at a distance from the campsite.

We pitch camp, and I start a fire. Lamb chops tonight!

I also realize I posted under "Hello" that we were in the Western Cape. We were actually in the Northern Cape. By about 10 metres. We came from the NC crossed over to the WC and crossed again to the campsite. Luckily no border posts.

It is a pleasant evening and we watch the sky, revisiting our astrology leasons a few days early. The moon makes it special, rising over the mountains. Our sleep is disturbed by some heavy winds for about an hour. Luckily no tent is pitched.

We awake to a perfect morning. Sand from the wind storm is covering the ground sheet, it's in the fold up chairs, blown under the shower door. Suppose it normal.

After a lazy breakfast we take to the road to go find a water hole. The turn off and road was a 4x4 grade 3 track, crossing rivers and mud holes, getting more tricky. As we were alone, I decided to rather turn back. We had seen Gemsbok, Springbok and a Jackal already. And with pools of water all over due to the rains, likelihood of seeing more game was skraal.

The road conditions were awful. We decided to spend the rest of the day at camp, popping in at reception to recharge on their wifi with WhatsApp messages

Lazy afternoon in the sun, taking in the most awesome sunset, braai (chicken) showers and bed. We were treated to another wind storm, but this one did not last as long.

Next days travel is to Clanwilliam via Calvinia.

Oh, and we saw that other couple pass by near reception. We had wondered if they had made it down the pass.
Maybe I plan my routes in too much detail.

Day 7.
We travel to Algeria Campsite in the Cederberg. Some 350 km.

We have tried as best possible to find out road conditions and best routes. Much of our info was found in dialog on a FB Tankwa Karoo Toerisme group. Enquiring about the best route to Clanwilliam, we are advised that the Calvinia Nieuwoudtville Vanrhynsdorp road is extremely busy with road works and mining vehicles. But, with our experience of dirt roads so far, we decide to do the Calvinia Nieuwoudtville Vanrhynsdorp (thank goodness for word prediction!) road.

With apprehension about the park road conditions and the R354 to Calvinia, the trips starts with ominous quietness. Key gets handed in at reception and we head off north west to the park exit and the R354.

Along the way a group of Toyota Prados and a sole 300, followed by an Everest approach. Shame, some guided tour for the rich, as there are absolutely no attachments or anything being towed.

To our pleasant surprise, the road has been "levelled". Not graded but same as what is done in KNP, where a tractor tyre or two get towed behind a bakkie. We maintain a good rate.

Arriving at the R354, we head north to Calvinia, 80km to go. Road has been graded! Going is good! No punctures! We accend the 11th pass, Bloukrans pass. Going gets rough with some serious corrugations, but we arrive at the top without incident. A few pictures are taken, a pee is taken, and we head to Calvinia to pump tyres and check the town out.

We are surprised how clean the town is considering it is in the Northern Cape. A few photos and some Cuppachinos at The Morris Cafe. Delicious peppermint caramel desert scoffed down, and a distinct smell of weed from the kitchen. Refreshments made on a high for sure! The theme of the restaurant is as the title says. The owner is a Morris and Mini nut, and has many car models in show cases in the different rooms. But time is running out, we aren't even halfway through the journey yet.

Before we leave, I make a call to Clanwilliam Toyota. Earlier in the trip I had a light bulb moment, when I realized the brake pads I had fitted before the trip were also suitable for Toyota LC's. The parts guy knows exactly what I am talking about when I describe the caliper pads locating pin and spring clip. I say to him I will see him in 3 hrs time.

At the entrance to the town is the golf course. Fairways are gravel. "Greens" are a different gravel. Interesting golf technique required here.

On the road out of town I point out to the navigator the gravel road I planned. She is upbeat. She the one that hates gravel roads, but knows the best scenery is to be found there, says our first leg was a treat, so what the hell, let's do it. One of many U turns so far is made, and we are headed straight for Clanwilliam.

Road conditions are good. One old Merc truck and a bakkie towing a trailer are the only vehicles that are travelling to Calvinia. A bit further on a long straight downhill, I spot a red blob in the centre of the road. Turns out to be a large back of ek weet nie, probably fell off one of the aforementioned vehicles.
Botterkloof pass, Klipfonteinrand pass are short but spectacular none the less. Finally, tar road and the Pakhuispas, with the spectacular rock formations of the Cederberg! Really is a special sight!

We cruise into Clanwilliam and stop at the Toyota garage. Alwyn the part guy immediately picks up from our telephone conversation and disappears to the back. About 3 minutes later he reappears with 2 types of pins and clips. Take my pick! Obviously a common problem on these dirt roads. I part with R330 and take two of each plus 2 anti squeal springs.

By the way, I had filled up 2 x 20 Jerry cans in Sutherland as I had no idea how much travelling we would do in TKNP. Road conditions put paid to that. So I transferred about 30 litres in the Paj, thus not needing to fill up again here.

We head out of town and go left on the N7 for 30km, turn off left to Algeria Campsite, one of the Cape Nature resorts.

Last pass for the day, Nieuwoudts (we will travel this one a few times) we arrive at camp, check in and go set up camp. This will be our home for the next 5 nights, as we will do extensive exploring of this beautiful and fascinating mountain range.

Braai time (chicken and salads) showers and bed, we are pretty exhausted.

Tomorrow we return to Clanwilliam for supplies and a look around.

Day 8:
Things to buy, things to fix.

We planned to do some provisioning in Clanwilliam, but some gremlins crept in. The water pump on the van had stopped working, and I had lost the water tank cap somewhere on the way here. Rough roads! A quick inspection and I trace the problem of the water pump to the main electric panel. The whole panel had come loose, and the earth wire to the relay that operates the microswitch in the tap was connected to one of the mounting screws.

Reconnecting this lot, the pump still won't work. So I expect a wire is broken somewhere, and a boer will have to make a plan

So off to town to look for bigger self tapping screws, some flex wire, a bedside light switch, and a petrol cap. Would you believe there are no Phillips head screws in town? And no petrol caps either! So I take the flat screw type, and I manage to find a universal cap for R30 that just pushes in. At least it's better than nothing.

Provisioning is done at the Spar. An absolute joy in there. Everything is top notch. Amongst other things I pack in 2 mangos the size of papayas for R10 each!

We lunch at Veldskoondraai Restaurant on the way out of town, most enjoyable and slightly different to the norm meals.
Some of it ends up going with as a snack tonight.

Back at camp I start to secure the panel. Lots of fun when you can only feel your way screwing in a flat head screw. Then I pull the flex cord into place, out the side door, and around the back underside to the pump. The worst part is connecting the switch. I have to completely strip the switch to connect the wires. Worst buy ever. If this switch fails......

Peaceful evening, made a fire anyway, and relaxed. At least we have running water now. After showers, Sue goes to bed, and I take in the quiet, and the moonlight. A Genet comes looking for a snack, right up close. Can't get a good photo, he is too skittish.

Day 9:
Explore the Cederberg mountains.

The main destination is the Stadsaal Caves, an astonishing geological display of millions of years of erosion. On the way we stop at a Vinyard. They proudly display a few bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon at R869 a pop. We move on.

We also pop in to see "Lot's wifes grave", a rock protruding from the earth looking like a human.

Next stop is a restaurant which looked like an oasis. We descend to it on the Kromrivier pass. The restaurant architecture blends into the shrubbery and almost seems to appear only when we stop in the parking area. Good time for lunch. I have lamb curry and Sue has Bobotie. Delicious food.

On our way again, a few farm gates, a troop of baboons, and a combination lock to get into the property, we are treated to the most amazing rock formations at every turn. A good hour is spent here. It is recommended to spend more, even a day. Picnic spots are dotted around the formations. Next time for sure.

We also stop to look at some rock art, as well as a place called Truintjieskraal, which is also rock formations, but different, you know.

It is Friday, and the weekend traffic is headed in. Rush hour on dirt roads. And there is a wedding being held at some resort along the way. Much dust to be had. Back at camp we just relax, take in sunset and the birds final tweats and whistles. I make a fire anyway, but we just have light snacks. The moon is out in all its glory again. We have showers, and Sue heads for nighty night. I wait for the Genet, who pays another visit.

Thanks for this comprehensive report Henri. Certainly some good info for people wanting to travel this area.

Mad Manny wrote: ↑

Thu May 16, 2024 5:34 pm

Thank you Onree, that was great...

Does that tense mean I must stop now?

HenriSteyn wrote: ↑

Thu May 16, 2024 6:00 pm

Mad Manny wrote: ↑

Thu May 16, 2024 5:34 pm

Thank you Onree, that was great...

Does that tense mean I must stop now?

So then we went home......

I had prepared this part already, but ran out of time to post. We are almost done here.

Day 10:
We are going to see the sea!

To Lamberts Bay and Elands Bay. The Cadac Safari Chef gas stove is packed and ingredients for a brunch at the seaside.

The temperature drops from a highish 26 deg to 17 by the time we get to Lamberts Bay. A quick drive around the town to find a spot to make brunch, we find nothing yet but we do find a small wine tasting shop just off the harbour. Sue buys some wine and we amble on. At the caravan park I see an old guy (I am not old) at a site with a just as old motor bike. Seriously, a Matchless twin! About 70 years old. I could not get to speak to the guy as he was walking away from us, but it looks like he is just touring alone.

We head towards Elands Bay, now getting hungry. Elands Bay is just a holiday place with a small township. It looks as if there was huge fish processing carried out here a long time ago, but all the buildings are derelict now.

We find a nice spot at the entrance to the main beach, pitch the brunch equipment and cook the eggs, bacon, toast, tomatoes etc. We then sit and watch about 30 surfers battle the huge waves. It is a well known surfing spot. Many CA and CAA vehicles here. Some guys have scooters and they sit on their surf boards and the board hanging out the back of the scooter. Not quite hang ten, but hang out the back!

We explore a bit more south, and come across a WWII radar station. Also the Saldaha Sishen iron train passes though a tunnel in a cliff which juts out with flat land around it. There is also a huge estuary here.

At about 3 pm we head back to camp, short cut it without having to go back to Lamberts. Tar roads are in excellent condition.

Genet does not visit tonight, as the campsites is quite full with weekend hikers.

Last 4 nights:

We spent 2 nights at Citrusdal Baths, a natural warm water spring resort about 15km south of Citrusdal.
Sited in a kloof, all caravan spots are situated under shady trees, giving the impression of a remote bush camp. There is chalet accommodation, recently renovated but the old architecture retained. Real treat to soak in the massive warm pool.

Only one pass was done, that being Piekenierskoof Pass, this on a quick outing to a farmstall and wine cellars.

Interesting section lay ahead, traversing 4 passes through the Cederberg Mountains to Kaggakamma Game Reserve:
Elandskloof
Middelberg
Buffelshoek
Katbakkies
All except Katbakkies are gravel, which strangely is tarred accending west to east only.

The trip was 125 km long, road conditions reasonable to good, tar between the Buffelhoek Pass and the turn off to Tankwa Karoo. After some 30 km after the Katbakkies Pass we left onto the KK road, the entrance gates about 10 km further on.

The reserve is much like the Cederberg geology, strangest rock formations. The reserve is aimed at international visitors, but the camping area is a treat. Situated at the far end of the accommodation area, it is up against a rock face. Stand no 5 is isolated, only the inquisitive hikers peek around the corner. Our fireplace is in a natural rock recess.

The two days are spent just relaxing and taking in the beautiful scenery and sunshine.

14th day we head for home. Zig zag route, 280 km and a number of passes:
Peerboomskloof
Rooihoogte
Burgers
Wildehondehoogte
Op de Tradoux
Voetpadkloof
Muiskraal
Huisrivier
Garcia

2700 km
R7600 diesel
Accommodation R 4800. Conservation fees are a killer. Wild Card is worth taking out.

Highlights? Everything except the brake pad pin and the water pump on the van. That is now working again.

What did we miss? We planned to do the many towns of the southern Cederberg (Tulbagh, Ceres, Riebeekkasteel, Riebeekwes, Prince Alfred Hamlet, Gouda, Harmon. That would be too rushed, and we would have missed the scenic route of the R303.

We are currently in CT, and on Saturday we travelled to all those towns, and ticked off another 4 passes, including the retarred Bainskloof Pass. This one is a must!

Thanks for tagging along.

Next trip is the West Coast from bottom to top. And Baviaans before that.