Day 5 and 6: To Tankwa National Park for 2 nights.
The couple I mentioned previously seemed to be shadowing us. Their trip plan seemed to be "let's go to Sutherland and Tankwa" not having any idea of what to see and find out as they go along. We gave them feedback on Ouberg Pass. The lady says she cannot take passes and drop downs close the edge of the road. I then said they have 2 options:
Go back South to the R355 and head up North to the Park, or
Do Middelpos Gannaga and into the Park. I told them I had phoned Gannaga Lodge and they reported the pass had been graded and is good. They had no idea what they were in store for....
We break camp, Sue has made some padkos and Cuppachinos, and we head into town to fill up with diesel. I am not happy with the left front and I decide it needs to be changed out with the spare.
To get the back door open and remove the spare wheel, the extra spare has to be removed from the drawbar of the caravan. These guys misunderstand me, and they want to take the left front, remove the tyre, fit the extra spare, and just put the spare wheel back! Much waving and explaining is required to get it sorted.
That couple arrives to fill up. They are first doing SALT and then travelling to TKNP the same route as us. That means they only leave SALT ( which is 15km out of town on the Fraserburg road East), at about 12h30!
Today's trip should be about 4 hours. However, at the restaurant the waiter tells us they travel to Calvina via Fraserburg, because the road from Middelpos to Calvinia is "stukkend". Sounds like fun.
The road is in mediocre condition. We can travel no more than 60 kph, often having to slow right down for roadworks and rain damage.
Then drama! Sounded like someone playing the triangle, which quickly became a drum roll! I stop the rig and take a walk around. Left front rim has a brake disc retaining pin protruding from one opening. And that is the wheel they changed.
Off comes the extra spare tyre to access the back door to get to the jack and wheel spanner. Floor carpets are laid down to try keep me clean. Once the wheel is off, I examine the now arc shaped pin. Does not seem too bad, and between the ex trolley jack handle I use for leverage (thanks Paul) and a hole in the draw bar, I get it reasonably straight. Luckily I have some thin wire which is used to secure the pin again. Wheel gets fitted using bullet pins to help fit the wheel (thanks Paul), tighten up, jack down, pack up and we go again. One car passed us while we were stationary. Love these quiet places! Delayed for about 45 minutes. No rush.
Uneventful trip further, other than the rough roads. Tyres are at 1.5 bar but it still shakes.
In Middelpos we try to buy some Obies. Can you believe a "Hotel Off Sales" still exists?
The shaking continues until we start descending Gannaga Pass. Beautifully scraped, it another magic pass like Ouberg. We are entertained by extraordinary scenes around each corner. A troop of baboons race down a virtual vertical drop just in front of us. Papa is the last down, and within a wink they are gone.
Exiting the pass we enter the Park a few kms further. The roads are still rough. We clock in at reception. Very friendly in true SANPARKS tradition. Here you can buy nothing except wood. R40 for a reasonable size too!
Our last leg to the campsite is really rough. It's flat, but they made the road with broken concrete pieces. The campsite is a jewel. Private ablutions with a huge shower, separate toilet and separate kitchen. The water stinks though. Probably borehole water, which was confirmed when I saw the solar powered pump and water tanks hidden behind the hill. These could be seen at a distance from the campsite.
We pitch camp, and I start a fire. Lamb chops tonight!
I also realize I posted under "Hello" that we were in the Western Cape. We were actually in the Northern Cape. By about 10 metres. We came from the NC crossed over to the WC and crossed again to the campsite. Luckily no border posts.
It is a pleasant evening and we watch the sky, revisiting our astrology leasons a few days early. The moon makes it special, rising over the mountains. Our sleep is disturbed by some heavy winds for about an hour. Luckily no tent is pitched.
We awake to a perfect morning. Sand from the wind storm is covering the ground sheet, it's in the fold up chairs, blown under the shower door. Suppose it normal.
After a lazy breakfast we take to the road to go find a water hole. The turn off and road was a 4x4 grade 3 track, crossing rivers and mud holes, getting more tricky. As we were alone, I decided to rather turn back. We had seen Gemsbok, Springbok and a Jackal already. And with pools of water all over due to the rains, likelihood of seeing more game was skraal.
The road conditions were awful. We decided to spend the rest of the day at camp, popping in at reception to recharge on their wifi with WhatsApp messages
Lazy afternoon in the sun, taking in the most awesome sunset, braai (chicken) showers and bed. We were treated to another wind storm, but this one did not last as long.
Next days travel is to Clanwilliam via Calvinia.
Oh, and we saw that other couple pass by near reception. We had wondered if they had made it down the pass.
Maybe I plan my routes in too much detail.
