Trip Report 5 countries 2873 kms

[Rechardt]

I am sure everyone has their own version and some may even be tired of reading reviews and reports.
I am by no means a poet or writer, but I shall attempt to give a trip report on my 2873km round trip done between the 4th and 16th January 2023 as best as I can.

5 countries- 11 days – S.A ,Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Zambia.

DAY 1- Sandton To Groblersbrug Border post.
Decided to take the scenic road via Bela Bela onto Modimole, Lepahalale and Tom Bourke to the border, All in a very pleasant road with not much traffic. Then again, most holiday makers were already back. So the roads were pretty quiet.
The border formalities took 25 Minutes for both sides, with most border officials doing the norm, sitting and lazing in the sun. The lady at the Botswana immigration had a bad day and pointed out that we entered the building at the wrong door and that we should never do it again. Her male counterpart in the seat next to her just looked at me and smiled from the corner of his mouth almost as if to say, Don’t worry Sir, it’s that time. AAAhhh Africa, that’s why we love you and that’s what we love about traveling Africa, it takes all sorts to either make your day, or piss you off. We were also the only people in the immigration Buildings on both sides.

On the SA side, vehicle was not searched and reg papers were not requested. Getting to the gate pass control, a SAPS member just waived us through. We were also careful enough as per reports not to carry any meat or veg cross border due to Foot and mouth disease.. Our plan was to stop in Palapye and buy the necessary. On the Botswana side of the border, we were pointed to drive through a very dirty pool of so called F/M dip. Didn’t see the point of it but whatever. Again at gate control, the lazy RA just waived us through. No search and check on nothing, so yeah, could have probably got away with all our meat provisions.

Onto Palapye we go and here we stopped at the Square Mart. Meat and some veggies . along with some Garlic breads were bought at the Food lovers market. Rib eye steaks at 119 Pula per kg was not bad. Well stocked up, it was onto our 1st night stop at Khama Rhino Sanctuary. The sanctuary has a mixture of camping and bush chalets. As we did not opt on taking the trailer, we opted for a bush chalet, very basic, but yes with a kettle, clean towels and tea and coffee, linen was also provided. We arrived late, we settled In at about 16h00, and then went out for a drive to all the pans. As expected, Rhino was to be seen and they were together with Zebra and lots of Impala. We returned to lodge and had a lekker braai.

Day 2 was an early rise and early departure as we went onto the Magadigadi Pans entering through Kumaga town. We entered the Gate at 09h00 without any delays or issues and drove along the cut line to the big Pan, Lots of Zebra on the way in. It was wet, very wet and very soft. We did not camp or stay here. It was merely and and out where we spent only 4 hours for the experience and it was definitely worth it. Returning to the Kumaga Gate, we headed for Maun, Our 2nd night stopover. Here we chose to Glamp at Sitatunga Camp managed by Delta Rain. This camp has a mixture of Chalets, Glamping tents and Camp spots and can accommodate very big groups. Settled in and went for a complimentary boat cruise followed by dinner at on site restaurant called The Tin Cup . The food served was mediocre.

Day 3 was an early rise again with a quick breakfast in the restaurant. Fuel filled in both tanks, ice bought and we headed to Moremi entering at Moremi South Gate as we were heading to Xakanaka for 1 night. 5 kilos out of Maun and onto the sand road, stopped, deflated to a mere 1.5 Bar, bought some wood at 10 Pula whilst deflating. Wood is cheaper outside the Park, so make sure you buy outside. If you are not headed to 3rd Bridge or Xakanaka, then go the North Gate if you are maybe camping at Magotho, its easier. Remember, at the split its left to South Gate and Right to North gate. It had rained lots and the road was wet with enough water and mud holes to keep you so busy that you could even miss the animal sightings. But Elephant galore. Get entrance at South Gate was easy and quick. Fees are P488.00 for a car and 2 people. Camping fee at Xakanaka was P350.00 pppn.
Xakanaka had nothing to offer or maybe we just did not spend enough time there, A far away Lion roar and that was it. The road in and out was verrrry wet and muddy.

Day 4 as with all other days was an early rise as we left Xakanaka and headed for Khwai Magotho Camp. Exited Moremi and then onto Khwai Magotho. The road was bad and wet, every 4 x 4 guys dream. There is a marsh road which we stumbled on as I took guide from T4A. LESSON LEARNT ABOUT THIS TRIP. DO NOT TRUST YOUR T4A OR GPS. Use your common sense, get a map if you have to and trust your driving judgement. You can get lost and can end up in a mess if you don’t have your witts about you. So a small 10km detour and back on to the main road through the park .. deep sand and low tyre pressures. Lots of Elephant again, Too may Impalas, Zebra, Girraffe and lots of massive Vultures. But the ever elusive Lion was still not to be seen. We arrived at Magotho and set up camp. NB# there is ablutions but be prepared to clean it yourself, I can’t understand humans, the ablutions were in a mess. We opted for our own bush shower and toilet set up.
Magotho is amazing right next to the Khwai river delta. Bird life is abundant and so is Elephant, Zebra, Impala, Kudu and Hippo. Magotho is also not in the Park, (Moremi) it is outside the park, so no park fees, just camping fees at P350 pppn. Skies are clear and lit and the sounds of animals are many, The lions had a party nearby that night keeping us awake all night, But they stayed elusive.
Wild dogs cantered through camp in the early evening and 2 Hippos dropped in to say hello but were quickly sent off by an Ellie right next to the tent blowing his trumpet so load even a steam locomotive would have derailed. Splashing in the pools a mere 5 metres from Camp.

Day 5 saw us packing up and after a quick brekkie we headed to Savuti via Mababe gate which is also Chobe National Park.. Paid and entered as we had 1 night wild camping at Paradise camp. It was a long and sandy road avoiding the marsh and sticking to the Sandridge road as much a possible with plenty deep water muddy detours through the bush. The winch was rolled out once, but that was to remove a massive tree that had fallen over. At Savuti, we were not charged any fees accept our camping which we pre- booked . The ablutions at the Savuti gate are TOP Notch.. Again no Lion but lots of Elephant and Girraffe. We came across an Impala kill, but no lion, Probably 30 vultures feasting away, Damn those vultures are massive almost towering the door handle of the Hilux and that with its 2 inch lift.
Paradise camp is neat, ablutions are clean. It has a nice atmosphere of been in Savuti , Lions roaring all night long, a distant hyena laughing at the moon. Elephants again grazing nearby. The Savuti Pan was filled with Impala, Roan and Zebra. A drive down Leopard Avenue produced nothing. As per the park guides , they have not seen a Leopard in an about 2 months and Lions have been scarce.

Day 6 Our drive took us from Savuti along the Sandridge Road as we headed for Ngoma. This meant we had sandy road conditions as we headed via Ghoha and not Linyanti, Reports advised that Linyanti was very very wet. Besides, Linyati was a longer route. So on we went pass the Savuti SKL camp sites and reported at the Ghoha office about 30kms away from Savuti Gate. The road was very bumpy and certain areas very soft. From Ghoha animals became less and the bush was less dense. Until we reached the end of he sand road, 5km from Kachikau where we quicjkly stopped for a beverage under the Baobab tree just before the tar road heading to Kachikau. From Kachikau we exited Botswana at Ngoma bridge border and entered Namibia heading to Chobe River camp for 2 nights. Well that was just bliss, The place was 10/10. Chobe River camp is literally 2 kms from the border and a mere 75kms from Kasane. Here you enter and experience the wildlife and views of the Greater Kabala/Ngwansu Wildlife Corridor. The lodge and campo is perfectly positioned on the Chobe river Delta. On the opposite side of the River is Chobe National Park, so you have a view of the plains and an abundance of wildlife roaming in view all day long, Massive herds of Buffalo, Girraffe, Zebra , Elephant and different species of Buck.
We spent 2 nights here which for me was too little. The lodge itself is immaculate and the staff and management are 100/100. A bush braai was organised by the manager and taking us out through the delta on boat passing pods of Hippo. The place is highly recommended.

Day 8 was presented with a lovely Continental breakfast at the main lodge restaurant while we watched some Zebra grazing across the river. Loaded we headed off back to the Ngoma bridge Border post and crossed back into Botswana. We were not searched for meat or veggies, but did do the traditional dip your shoes. The crossing was a quick process both ways not taking more than 15 minutes. No C19 restrictions anywhere. We headed for Kasane only 75 kms away but this meant entering The Chobe wildlife corridor and signing in at the gate, there are no fees to be paid as this entrance is on a national road. Upon entering, you know you are in wildlife territory as Elephants are immediately grazing at the side of the road, Massive bulls with enormous tusks and trunks There ears warning you from a far, Speed limit 40/60kms ph. As you enter Kasane it is evident that it has grown since I was last there 8 years ago. 3 nice shopping malls, Nandos, Pick and Pay, Choppies and a hoard of lodges. Accommodation is not a problem in Kasane which varies from Backpacking to camping, glamping. Lodging , hotels and self-catering, The pricing is moderate and you can choose whatever your budget allows between P300.00 AND P6000.00 per night. There are some verrrrry nice places in Kasane but expect to pay a bit more for river frontage accommodation. Our destination, The Big 5 Chobe Lodge on the river. Previously known as The big 5 Torro lodge which over the last 5 months has become Chinese owned and managed with absolutely no idea of tourism or any hospitality. I shall not review this lodge here as there is nothing to say and does not come with any recommendation from us. We chose this lodge in terms of its proximity to Kazangula as we were to spend the next day visiting Vic falls. However said, we do not recommend this place at all. Dinner was had at the Pizza house and curry pot on the main road just 1km from The Mowana lodge. Food was okayish.. nothing to write home about. We retired early.

Day 9 woke with a English breakfast at the lodge and a beautiful view of the river, which made up for the terrible lodge hospitality. We then departed with our pick up to Kazangula border post. Kasane has many tour operators and shuttle services varying between P350 AND P650 pp. This is a good option instead of driving yourself and having to clear your vehicle etc. it’s a short 30 min drive to Vic falls town and right to a drop off at the Vic falls Zimbabwe entrance. We spent about 2 hours meandering the Falls Park and view points. Mosi o Tunya was only flowing at 60%.Entrance fee for a SADEC resident is 20USD.. All other is 30USD payable in dollars or just swipe your cards for ease. But yes, the falls is always nice to see. The last I was there was in 2011. What I liked, Vic falls is very clean, not a ounce of dirt or rubbish in the town. Upon exiting to the car park, there is a curio market, be prepared to be bombarded. You can easily part with your money on unwanted rubbish. Jan is low season, so a lot of bargaining takes place. An item now at 10USD can be 50 USD is high season. These curio stores take all and any currency. Teke a walk over the bridge and watch the folks at the Bunjee platform whilst you step over the boundary into Zambia. 500 metres from the falls is a small centre with a quant coffee shop called Shearwater coffee shop, stop by they have great carrot cake and burgers.
Then take a walk along the strip and just pop into the various stores along the main road if you want. I was eager to get back to the lodge as I was going fishing that afternoon as ell take a boat ride which is tradition for a sunset cruise on the Chobe. So we departed Vic falls and headed back to Kasane through the border gates. Seamless and less than 10 mins both ways via or shuttle service.
Well the fishing was not great, 3 Cat fish and 1 small chessa. If you want more action, then have lots of time to fish live bait for Tiger lower down or 30kms from Ngoma in Kalizo, which is towards Katima. But the boat cruise was spectacular. Elephants, Hippo on the sides. We spoilt ourselves with dinner at the Chobe River lodge and only returned to our lodge way past 10 0 clock, Kasane sleeps at 9 PM and as you drive back through the streets, be on the look out for Hippo and Elephant as we found road blocking us a few times.

Day 10 packed an loaded, breakfast and tyre pressure, fuel filled up, I loved this part, 95 unleaded was only 13.77 a litre which is R 17.90 a litre, The V6 Hilux was loving it. So filling both tanks was a pleasure. We then headed on the A3 direction Nata. To Elephant sands for a stopover, Elephant sand is only about 235 kilos from Kasane and is legendary for its Elephant experience. With a choice of camping and chalets. Chalets are rather expensive at P2150 per night, no breakfast , no aircon, no fan. Personally I think Elephant sands accommodation is overrated and overall staff management and hospitality is basically they are doing you a favour. Clearly aimed at the international market depicting a lifetime experience to see Elephants. Elephant Sands is a waste of time if you have already been to Chobe or Moremi. Elephants is abundant at the water hole. But it will not be a stop over for me again.

Day 11 was a long day as e departed at 06h30 in the morning after coffee and rusks via Nata where we turned off to Sowa town. Heading through this Village to the Sowa Pans and direction Kubu . From Nata its only 20kms, I just wanted the experience so it was 2 hours in and out and back to Sowa. We didn’t have to go far in as we had already done Magadigadi on the way up to Maun. Then onto Francistown where stopped at the local Spur for a brunch, heading on the A1 back to Groblersbrug/Martins drift Border Post.
Yes it was long and sometimes slow. But I shall do it again with a few new changes and new places. You can decide, it can be a full on 5 star trip or a full on camping experience, or even a mixture of Glamping and camping. Whatever your budget is can be done. And yes, you can do it alone or with a operator. But be prepared to pay crazy tour operator prices. That market is vicious if you are not careful.

Well that’s a wrap folks.. safe travels and I am happy to give the little advice I can if you need it. TTOT- The Travels of Timm.

[Rechardt]

Just some pics at Random

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[Rechardt]

Pics at random

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[AndreasR]

Nice trip report Rechard. Always nice to see what others are doing and where they are staying.
We did a very similar trip in December/January.
Just haven’t got around to doing the report due to planning the next trip.

[Mad Manny]

Thanks Rechard...

[Bugjuic]

Great Report! Thanks

Out of interest having been at some of the places and now seeing some new ones along your trip. Having to average almost 300km per day and being more of a travel trip than a 'leisurely' trip.

1. Are there places you wish you could have stayed longer?
2. Anything you would have changed about your trip?

[Mad Manny]

Peet, In no expert, but I think he would have liked to stay longer at the place he said was fantastic then added 'We only stayed 2 days, wish it was longer'. Chobe River Camp
The Chinese run place he didnt like (Big 5 Chobe Lodge) - I think he would not go there again (he even said so)...

Hope this helps...

[Rechardt]

Great Report! Thanks

Out of interest having been at some of the places and now seeing some new ones along your trip. Having to average almost 300km per day and being more of a travel trip than a 'leisurely' trip.

1. Are there places you wish you could have stayed longer?
2. Anything you would have changed about your trip?

The only thing I would have changed about the trip was not staying at Big 5 Chobe( Formerly Torro)
I have been to many of these places before, but not on this kinda solo trip.
As for this trip, I wouldn't change anything. In fact it was almost like a Recce trip for me as I plan to do Botswana more.
The exciting thing is every trip will be different as you see and visit different locations in Moremi, Khwai, Savuti and Chobe.
And these locations can vary from having a total 5 start glamping experience to a full on camping experience.

So next time I will change my route and places to see, only because there is so much to see and visit, For example, I did not visit Baines baobabs and I would like to stay at The Khwai expeditions camp in the Delta. Also go spoil myself at Gunns camp.
In Savuti I will change and go stay at SKL.. just for something different other than Paradise camp.

In Maun, go to Mankwe tented camp which is only 75 kms from Maun in the Delta or go to Okavango river lodge

In the drier season I will tale the marsh road from South Gate to Savuti and also spend more time in Xakanaka and 3rd Bridge area..
Remember Botswana is Big, a proper trip and or journey can take 3 weeks or more if you want to stay proper in the various parks.
As for Kasane, I will go to Senyati or if I want to spoil myself, I will book in at the Chobe river lodge (Not Big 5 Chobe)
Next time cut Vic falls out and maybe cross over at Pandamatenga and go to Hwange... so many choices...

[Bugjuic]

Sounds like one hell of a trip!

And great that you visited so many places. Have done Botswana casually and have done it touring as-well. Both with their unique beauty.

If you get the chance to go to Baines, have a rest at Nxai Pan!

Also, weather dependent, driving from Kubu Island through the Ntwe-Twe pans to Xhumaga was truly amazing.

Agreed that Botswana has so much too offer, one should actually take each cardinal direction and explore it for its own uniqueness. Taking it as a recce mission is a good idea which I find intriguing.

Anyway, like to see these write-ups, makes me want to pack up and go again, keeping the spirit alive!