Maxxis Tyres

Waterberg Walkabout: In Search of the Bushveld Dives

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iandvl
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#16

Post by iandvl »

2022/05/01 - Lekwena to Mabalingwe
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We had quite a bit of rain the previous evening, so we broke camp later than normal in order to let the roof-top tent and awning dry a little. After that, we cleaned up at the ablutions and hit the road. From Lekwena, we headed South to the tar road to Bela-Bela. At Bela-Bela, we got some nosh for the evening and, since it was the first of the month, attended to some banking whilst we had reception. Whilst wrapping that up, I also managed to get a spot for camping at Mabalingwe for the evening. Thereafter, we headed out West on the R516 (Bela-Bela <-> Thabazimbi road).

Liana has a thing for "padstalle", which I don't always get, but since we so our first stop was Peet se Padstal where Liana wanted to browse a little. That done, we continued a few hundred metres down the road to our first dive of the day. Jakkalsgat. What a dive it was - they don't get much better than this... Goats, ducks, geese and cats have the run of the place. The place stinks of goat urine as you enter from the road. The pub itself is filthy. And full of bric-a-brac. From old ZA flags hanging from the ceiling, to a gazillion of those little pieces of wood that people write on to put up behind the bar. The dust is probably a few metres deep in places. And there is no way I would ever eat anything prepared in that place. I'd not even use a glass - if I ordered anything to drink I would want it in its own glass or aluminum receptacle and I would want it opened before me... Anyways, it has a sort of rustic pub type attraction that appeals. I can imagine that one could get stuck there quite badly after a few Jaegermeisters. From the inscriptions on various little boards stuck behind the bar, I guess that happens often... After finishing our beer without contracting Hepatitis, we headed further West and checked in at Mabalingwe.

It was faaaar too early to set up camp, so we decided to go for a game drive first. However, with the dense undergrowth, game viewing was not successful. After driving around the park for a while, we found ourselves at dive number two. The Kalahari Oasis. It was quieter here than it was the last time I was at Mabalingwe. I approve of the fact that the bar is made out of the bodywork of some Landrover Defender. I am glad somebody decided to put the poor thing out of its misery so that it would stop pissing oil all over the planet. But the fact that they have a Toyotaholics-branded fridge behind the pub speaks volumes about the type of people who frequent the place.

The Kalahari Oasis is an anethema for me - for several reasons.

1: It's a massive kuier plek in the middle of a game park with big game.
2: It's not in the Kalahari.
3: It's signature drink is Rum and Raspberry. But it's not Moz.

After having a beer or two (I did - Liana opted for the RnR), we headed back to the caravan park and set up camp. We built the braai fire, had a few beers and chilled to the sound of Kurt Darren pumping from one of the many Toyotaholics vehicles strewn around the camp site. Despite Kurt, we were still visited by one of the camp-site's local antelope. The poor thing - being subjected to Kurt on a pretty much permanent basis... We also watched the monkeys raid the provisions from people camping across from us. I originally tried to chase them away, but after the 30th time, it got too much for me. What was I to do ? Lock all their stuff up in my car ? There are warning signs of the monkeys all over the place - I have very little sympathy... I did warn the folk about the broken glass lying all over their groundsheet (the monkeys) when they got back from the pub.

This was the last evening away. We braaied late-ish, and then turned in.
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Ian de Villiers

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#17

Post by Mad Manny »

:D
I camped at the 4x4 Campsite at Mabalingwe - about 1km past the Kalahari Oasis Pub.
We could hear the pub, but it went quiet around 20:00....
"No one ever got stuck - in mid air!"

2010 Fortuner D-4D 4x4 'Fearless'
2006 Conqueror Conquest 'Gearless'

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#18

Post by iandvl »

That is on my list of camp-sites I still want to visit. But this time, we could only get space in the caravan park. It was rather depressing.
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#19

Post by iandvl »

2022/05/02 - Mabalingwe to Pretoria via Assen and Harties
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We broke camp early AM. Most of the Kurt-brigade were still sleeping. Whilst breaking camp, I watched the same monkeys raid the same camp from the same boxes whilst the same boxes slept late in their trailer top tent.

Done, we headed out West on the R516. At the Leeuwkop turn-off, we turned left to Assen and then back on the dirt road to Brits, opting this time to head out on the R512 to the Southern side of Harties where we had breakfast at a friend of mine's restaurant - La Terazza. Here, we spotted a Jeep in its natural habitat. I also gathered that the rought roads had taken a toll on the vehicle too as I seem to have lost a quarter of one of my new fender flares. I presume I damaged it with a rock or something, and the 500-odd metres of serious mud we had to get across ripped the other bit off. It is minor - new fender flare ordered and it is on its way as I type.

Breakfast done, we headed back to Pretoria via the Pelindaba toll road. We stopped to buy supper stuff at the PnP around the corner (it is crappy - we normally go to the spar).

This is my second-last post on the topic. I will sum up the waterberg on my next one, as I always do. :)
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#20

Post by Mad Manny »

iandvl wrote:
Mon May 16, 2022 7:33 pm
We broke camp early AM. Most of the Kurt-brigade were still sleeping.
Whilst breaking camp, I watched the same monkeys raid the same camp from the same boxes whilst the same boxes slept late in their trailer top tent.
:D :lol: :) :P
"No one ever got stuck - in mid air!"

2010 Fortuner D-4D 4x4 'Fearless'
2006 Conqueror Conquest 'Gearless'

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#21

Post by iandvl »

Conclusion

I think, over the years I've managed to give the greater Waterberg area a good run-through as indicated by the tracks below which indicate most of the places I've driven over the last few years. It excludes Serendipity - which I did with a bunch of friends a couple of years ago. My GPS was off at the time. It also excludes some other very rough track I did near Vaalwater back in 2014 for the same reason.
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However, I think I've done a large percentage of the back roads in the area, and I've visited many of the local dives. As such, my final trip report for this area is complete.

What I like about the Waterberg ? There are amazing viewpoints, game farms, dives, gravel roads, game (when you can see it) and similar. It's also close, so you don't need to spend three days travelling there. One is also always spoiled for camping - there are amazing camp sites which aren't advertised and which do not future in this trip report as we didn't stop there. Still, the entire area is littered with out of the way places.

What I don't like about the Waterberg ? The Toyotaholics and Kurt-Darren-Brigade at Mabalingwe.

I'm starting to think about next "local" plan, but I've not decided where yet... I've done the majority of the Namaqua and Richtersvelde routes. I have no desire to go down to the Western Cape - I'm there regularly enough for work in any case. I'm sort of thinking Eastern Cape, but I'll still make my mind up about that. I've also got two other trips in the pipeline - River Trip in August, and possibly a trip to the skeleton coast in Namibia if my tax return is good.

Hope all enjoyed reading. Please PM if you want my track files.
Ian de Villiers

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