Pypkar

[Reenen]

Thus, die ding gaan n plaas en berg pypkar wees. Glad nie op paaie ry. So ek dink ek kan heelwat meer toleransie op speling hê. Sal seker nie gereeld bo 50 km/h gaan nie.

En met bogenoemde spoed, twyfel ek of daar veel sin in is om v8 te gaan....

Miskien dalk hou by n lekker low down torque diesel...

[Mike Nel]

Jy is op die ideale plek om so projek aan te pak. Jy is ook op die ideale plek om so projek te gebruik

Sal die bou volg

[Apocalypse]

Pipe cars are fairly simple if you start with a plan.

As fas a the rear 4 link st up goes, Ideally the front joints of all 4 should be in the same plane as the front knuckle of the rear prop.

that means your propshaft spline doesn't work much. if they are significantly ahead of or behind the front knuckle the prop spline works a mot harder

From the side plan view the upper and lower arms should be parallel and equal length NB - the actual length will be different. - this keeps your diff flange at a constant angle, which prevents your joints going out of phase .

Your upper rear joints on the top of the diff determine your roll centre - in a full A Frame set up (like a Defender rear) the roll centre is on the joint at the top of the diff. As they move further apart the roll centre goes down. Ideally, if you drew a line through your geometric Roll Centres Front and Rear should more or less pass through your COG, with the front Roll Centre lower than the Rear.

[Reenen]

Thanx alex. Exactly what I’ve been looking for.

[Reenen]

Now to go buy some steel and top links.

First, I want to sort out the suspension from a smal square floor frame, and from there starting the body, only after the front and back axles is connected to the frame.

What do you suggest for front? Also 4 link, pretty much as in back?

[Reenen]

But to work around the engine, this is going to be tough

[Reenen]

Something like this?

[Apocalypse]

Oh yes, and go to Bearing man and get industrial male rod ends - they are inexpensive. Make them the same size all round so you only need to make one size socket for all.

You certainly don't want your lower arms to be less than about 1200mm for proper articulation. the length of the top arms will simply follow once you set the diff up.

I wouldn't go for anything under a 16mm joint, preferably closer to 20mm knowing you Rod Ends aren't as strong as Rose Joints - I haven't got my book here to check the ratings but bigger is better.

The best way to do it as a one off (no jig, no plan) is to take 2 rails, put in a couple of cross members to make them parallel, then mount your engine, box and T/Case, measure it all up and level it all , place your diff about 1400 to 1500mm behind the T/Case flange, square it all and tack in some temporary stays. Then make up your lower control arm brackets for the diff and chassis so they are angled correctly, then just measure the lower arm length and make up

then move onto the top ones.

[Apocalypse]

Now to go buy some steel and top links.

First, I want to sort out the suspension from a smal square floor frame, and from there starting the body, only after the front and back axles is connected to the frame.

What do you suggest for front? Also 4 link, pretty much as in back?

4 link front is KAK unless you have full hydraulic steering - the steering box can't cope with the travel. You either go panhard rod or hydraulic with a rack.

Surprisingly, the full Hydraulic is not horrific and pretty easy to put together - you just need to mount the pump and ram. Makes life very easy as there is no steering shaft.

[Apocalypse]

oh yeah - and see if you can get the rod ends with the little boots to keep the dust and mud off them....

[Apocalypse]

But to work around the engine, this is going to be tough

Like I say - mount the engine / box / T/case assy to the frame first. you need your front diff ahead of the motor or you don't have enough travel, and again, Ideally, the Frame ends of the control links need to be in line with the front prop joint.

but when it rolls, you need those links to clear the motor - so actually a straight 6 makes life easier for packaging in some ways.

Why aren't you making it rear engined? ....

[Reenen]

I was planning 30mm cat2 rod ends.




Old axle, some old (and to short) links, just showing my meccie what I intending.

[Reenen]

Alex, please advise further.

Idealy, the pipecar should be 100” wheelbase (like a disco1), correct?

With 1200mm arms, that means the arms attach to each other?

[Apocalypse]

I think the 100" is a competition thing - 100" goes into long wheel base category.

I don't think it's important - shorter is easier around the twisties and break over areas, but longer stays on all 4 wheels more easily on climbs or descents.

100" = 2540mm ... well at 1200mm you'd have 140mm between them which isn't going to line up with your prop joints - if you want it that short, making the rods 1m should work out.

Really, the front axle location is dictated by the front of the engine - it has to go past the front of the motor (if it's front engined) or you'll have to limit the articulation.

what is the distance from the front out put flange to the front engine pulley?

[Apocalypse]

those joints will be plenty - just make sure you use a locknut on them, you don't want to work the threads!