DIY Farm buggy
- ThysleRoux
- Location: Cape Town
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As long as the "ducting" cowls are efficient it should work. The Beetle motor's ducting is designed to be blown and not sucked through, so it will have to completely redesigned. Make sure the oil cooler is upstream from the engine heat and it can work.
VW aircooled boxer motors are tough - it is the reputation that still keeps VAG going after all the years. Just like Toyota riding on the back of the toughness of the old Toyopet and Toyota Stout bakkies
VW aircooled boxer motors are tough - it is the reputation that still keeps VAG going after all the years. Just like Toyota riding on the back of the toughness of the old Toyopet and Toyota Stout bakkies
I refuse to be POLITICALLY CORRECT to impress others - Deal with it
FLEX is UNDERRATED
FLEX is UNDERRATED
Correct but if you open up the gearbox and just turn the diff around you will have 4 forward and one reverse gear. The diff (or maybe just the crown wheel, cant remember exactly which) on a volla fits on the left or the right side of the pinion gear. But it will be best to keep it rear wheel drive. In the current configuration cooling should not be an issue as the fan provides enough cooling.
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What I did thus far:
1) Removed the fiber glass body from the chassis
2) Gave the chassis a proper wash. Floor looks decent with no real rust issues. It seems the previous owner removed the old floor at some stage. He did a piss poor job in welding in a new one - no lateral support. Thus the floor is starting to bulge.
3) Noticed an oil leak. Removed the sump cover (after struggling with one striped bolt for nearly an hour) - no gasket - just a sealer. Did not expect anything else when I got the vehicle for free.
4) Cleaned the points in the distributor, tested it and it seems to do the job. Concerned about the condenser - still works but I will replace it for peace of mind.
5) Tested the ignition coil - still functioning.
6) Stock fuel pump was removed. The previous owner fitted an aftermarket pump - at the front of the fiber glass body with steel wire Tested it, still works, however I think my 4 year old boy can manage a stronger flow. I have a submersible fuel pump lying around somewhere (never been used) - maybe I will use that instead of sourcing a new pump.
7) For the past three days I have been struggling to start the motor. As the body was removed - which contained all the wires from the ignition, I had to resort to hotwire it. The first issue was to figure out the wiring. Connected a wire from the positive terminal of the battery and connected it to the positive side of the coil. I connected a wire from the (-) side of the coil to the condenser. Hotwired it on the starter and the engine turned (thank God) but no dice. So I started at the coil (see 5 above) and worked my way down to the distributor (see 4 above). All worked fine - I just got no spark at the plugs. It then dawned on me, I never grounded the distributor.So I connected the wire from the condenser to the distributor and bridged it back to the condenser. After doing so, I got spark.
8) Opened the carburetor and it had fuel. Decided not to waste my time any further and took of the carb to clean out all the jets. The carb was a mess. Took it apart and cleaned everything. After reassembly, I refitted it, connected the fuel line and started the motor - no dice. Noticed that the accelerator valve did not (faucet looking thingy) spray any fuel. So I took it apart gain. Figure I have a vacuum problem which I intend to sort out tonight.
9) For sake of peace of mind, I sprayed quick start down the air intake of the carb and the engine started, albeit for a brief moment. At least I know if I sort out the fuel issue, It will start. Once I know it is running, I can start with the real work - fabricating the new body. Now I know my limits and I do not possess the tools or know how to bend pipe properly to make a rounded body. I got me a cut-off grinder to compensate. The previous owner used 50mm rectangular tubing for the frame of the chassis, so I will just stick to that when building the body. It may not end up being as pretty as pipe, but it will get the job done - after all it will be used on the farm.
Had something like this in mind:
I will post some pics of the progress tonight.
1) Removed the fiber glass body from the chassis
2) Gave the chassis a proper wash. Floor looks decent with no real rust issues. It seems the previous owner removed the old floor at some stage. He did a piss poor job in welding in a new one - no lateral support. Thus the floor is starting to bulge.
3) Noticed an oil leak. Removed the sump cover (after struggling with one striped bolt for nearly an hour) - no gasket - just a sealer. Did not expect anything else when I got the vehicle for free.
4) Cleaned the points in the distributor, tested it and it seems to do the job. Concerned about the condenser - still works but I will replace it for peace of mind.
5) Tested the ignition coil - still functioning.
6) Stock fuel pump was removed. The previous owner fitted an aftermarket pump - at the front of the fiber glass body with steel wire Tested it, still works, however I think my 4 year old boy can manage a stronger flow. I have a submersible fuel pump lying around somewhere (never been used) - maybe I will use that instead of sourcing a new pump.
7) For the past three days I have been struggling to start the motor. As the body was removed - which contained all the wires from the ignition, I had to resort to hotwire it. The first issue was to figure out the wiring. Connected a wire from the positive terminal of the battery and connected it to the positive side of the coil. I connected a wire from the (-) side of the coil to the condenser. Hotwired it on the starter and the engine turned (thank God) but no dice. So I started at the coil (see 5 above) and worked my way down to the distributor (see 4 above). All worked fine - I just got no spark at the plugs. It then dawned on me, I never grounded the distributor.So I connected the wire from the condenser to the distributor and bridged it back to the condenser. After doing so, I got spark.
8) Opened the carburetor and it had fuel. Decided not to waste my time any further and took of the carb to clean out all the jets. The carb was a mess. Took it apart and cleaned everything. After reassembly, I refitted it, connected the fuel line and started the motor - no dice. Noticed that the accelerator valve did not (faucet looking thingy) spray any fuel. So I took it apart gain. Figure I have a vacuum problem which I intend to sort out tonight.
9) For sake of peace of mind, I sprayed quick start down the air intake of the carb and the engine started, albeit for a brief moment. At least I know if I sort out the fuel issue, It will start. Once I know it is running, I can start with the real work - fabricating the new body. Now I know my limits and I do not possess the tools or know how to bend pipe properly to make a rounded body. I got me a cut-off grinder to compensate. The previous owner used 50mm rectangular tubing for the frame of the chassis, so I will just stick to that when building the body. It may not end up being as pretty as pipe, but it will get the job done - after all it will be used on the farm.
Had something like this in mind:
I will post some pics of the progress tonight.
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
- Apocalypse
- Location: Cape Town
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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes
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As always, that looks awesome.Apocalypse wrote: ↑Wed Apr 17, 2019 12:52 pmQuick tutorial on buggy building for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBwF6vw ... e=youtu.be
But does it come in black...?
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
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Just came back from the hardware shop.
Decided on 38mm x 38mm x 2mm to fabricate the frame.
Got two sheets of checkered alu (1,5mm) for a whopping R980-00 per sheet - bargain.
Decided on 38mm x 38mm x 2mm to fabricate the frame.
Got two sheets of checkered alu (1,5mm) for a whopping R980-00 per sheet - bargain.
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
- Apocalypse
- Location: Cape Town
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:40 pm
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- Location: Nambia
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Started with the front end of the frame. Square tubing is a bitch...
Pipe would have been much easier.
Got the engine to run (finally) - sparkplug cables set in the wrong order and replaced the condenser.
Its supposed to look like a cruiser (my father in law always wanted a cruiser)
Pipe would have been much easier.
Got the engine to run (finally) - sparkplug cables set in the wrong order and replaced the condenser.
Its supposed to look like a cruiser (my father in law always wanted a cruiser)
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
-
- Location: Nambia
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If you were wondering, the big carrier in the front will be for a jerry can amongst others
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
- Apocalypse
- Location: Cape Town
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:40 pm
Look. I dunno that the Cruiser guys are going to be entirely happy with your interpretation....
Glad to see you have employed some help though!
Glad to see you have employed some help though!
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes
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When I am done with it, it will be able to go anywhere a cruiser can goApocalypse wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:28 pmLook. I dunno that the Cruiser guys are going to be entirely happy with your interpretation....
Glad to see you have employed some help though!
Ranger Mildtrak
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
Scorpio Curry Cruiser
A tos-lookin', lunchbox, lipstick and powder puff carryin' home-built trailer
- Apocalypse
- Location: Cape Town
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 2:40 pm
you mean like... the mall?Ricoffy wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:35 pmWhen I am done with it, it will be able to go anywhere a cruiser can goApocalypse wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:28 pmLook. I dunno that the Cruiser guys are going to be entirely happy with your interpretation....
Glad to see you have employed some help though!
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes
- ThysleRoux
- Location: Cape Town
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- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:32 pm
Good on you for tackling this task!!!!
As for the "Cruiser-look", I am a little sceptical .................................. it follows the lines of another Toyota from the past though and since Alex has started with the PINK theme, here you are.
As for the "Cruiser-look", I am a little sceptical .................................. it follows the lines of another Toyota from the past though and since Alex has started with the PINK theme, here you are.
I refuse to be POLITICALLY CORRECT to impress others - Deal with it
FLEX is UNDERRATED
FLEX is UNDERRATED
- ThysleRoux
- Location: Cape Town
- Been thanked: 1 time
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- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:32 pm
It'll probably be FASTER than a Broozer ..................................Apocalypse wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 8:58 pmyou mean like... the mall?Ricoffy wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:35 pmWhen I am done with it, it will be able to go anywhere a cruiser can goApocalypse wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:28 pmLook. I dunno that the Cruiser guys are going to be entirely happy with your interpretation....
Glad to see you have employed some help though!
I refuse to be POLITICALLY CORRECT to impress others - Deal with it
FLEX is UNDERRATED
FLEX is UNDERRATED