DIY Farm buggy

[Ricof4e]

I am quite intimidated by doing the wiring, have very little knowledge of vehicle electrics.

I don't have to worry about brake lights and turn signals as the vehicle will not be roadworthy - it will spend most of its days on the farm.

Will have a oil pressure gauge and a fuel gauge, that's it. Then I thought of three switches, one for the fuel pump, one for the lights and one for the ignition. Thinking of adding a kill switch.

Can you think of anything else I may need switches for?

[Mad Manny]

Grips is a Mine Sparky & a vehicle restorer/Modifier - he'd be the best person to assist.
Let me go call him...

[Ricof4e]

Grips is a Mine Sparky & a vehicle restorer/Modifier - he'd be the best person to assist.
Let me go call him...

Thanx Manny!

[Apocalypse]

Looks relatively good now!

What are you planning to hit with it? It looks VERY strong

It's a very simple wiring loom you need. Fit a kill switch to break the earth and have an ignition switch and a starter button (and probably one for lights?) running through fuses and relays.

An oil light it all you need. A big one is good. What tank are you using? the original or fabricated? If it's fabricated just put a sight glass on it (piece of clear tube)

[Ricof4e]

Looks relatively good now!

What are you planning to hit with it? It looks VERY strong

It's a very simple wiring loom you need. Fit a kill switch to break the earth and have an ignition switch and a starter button (and probably one for lights?) running through fuses and relays.

An oil light it all you need. A big one is good. What tank are you using? the original or fabricated? If it's fabricated just put a sight glass on it (piece of clear tube)

Thank you Apoc.

I am using the standard tank, did buy a new float - the old one looks pretty banged up.

Will get a oil light - thanks for the tip.

I know the nose is a bit "over-engineered" but the majority of the farm is quite rocky - over there baboons have to walk with canes to get around - so I opted to reinforce as much as I can without making it too heavy. Like posted above, I am using thin wall square tubing to try and keep the overall weight down.

[Ricof4e]

Apoc, what are the amperage requirements for wires iro ignition etc?

[Apocalypse]

you'll need to run 15 Amps to your ignition and pump relay as well as the starter solenoid - thats 2,5sqmm wire min. you need that for your alternator light and oil light and fuel gauge too. (do not send the live to the tank...)

but you'll need 20 amp for the pump wiring from relay to pump and ideally 20 amp to headlights too (also from relay) which is 4sqmm.

so, for a job like that where weight isn't an issue just use 4sqmm wire for all the small things (i.e. except battery to starter and Alternator) and make sure each circuit runs through a 20Amp fuse - one for each headlight preferably)

Then you'll need 95Amps from Alternator Charge which is 25sqmm wire to battery

And you'll need at least 200Amps from Battery to Starter and Earth straps which is the 120sqmm stuff. you should be able to get premade straps.

[Apocalypse]

Oh yes, and a word of advice.

A lot of people think welding a 10mm bolt to the frame is a good idea for an earth.

it's not. it will work for a year and then you'll start with the trouble. the weld is not big enough to transmit the load, and as time goes on you get rust between the bolt head and the frame causing earthing issues. Starter won't spin, battery discharges etc.

Weld a proper Lug (a piece of flat bar with a hole) onto the frame with at least 50mm of weld on each side of it. repeat at the other end where you want to go from the frame to the motor.

make sure there is a 'good run' of tube that they are fitted too - i.e. ideally the current will not go through too many frame joints. One poorly welded joint with a heap of grinding on it can often end up with a very small cross section for power to pass....

[Ricof4e]

Thanks Apoc. Will give it a try

[Ricof4e]

Starting to take shape.

Wife says it looks like a rat rod.

[Ricof4e]

Engine is running a bit rough. Struggling to get and hold the idle at 850rpm.

Before I fiddle with the carb and timing, I will replace the coil, condensor and put in new points in the dizzy. If it still runs rough, I will have a look at the carb and take it from there. I did adjust the valve clearance.

I suspect it may be the coil. Took the cable form the coil to the dizzy and held it close to the engine bay. The spark is yellowish and it must be blue. Anyway, making progress slowly but surely.

[grips]

Unleaded fuel causes havoc in carbs if engine stands for long periods.

[Ricof4e]

Unleaded fuel causes havoc in carbs if engine stands for long periods.

When I took the carb off, there was no signs of fuel - it was dry. Anyway, I dismantled it right in the beginning and cleaned all the jets etc.

The way I see it, if it is the carb, which is the most expensive to replace, I would rather first start with the coil, condenser and distributor points and work my way from there. The aforementioned are cheap and easy to replace.

[ThysleRoux]

Unleaded fuel causes havoc in carbs if engine stands for long periods.

When I took the carb off, there was no signs of fuel - it was dry. Anyway, I dismantled it right in the beginning and cleaned all the jets etc.

The way I see it, if it is the carb, which is the most expensive to replace, I would rather first start with the coil, condenser and distributor points and work my way from there. The aforementioned are cheap and easy to replace.

I like the way you think !!! KISS principle

[Apocalypse]

Starting to take shape.

Wife says it looks like a rat rod.

Looking good! Love seeing people make things!

Another word of advice though - drop a couple of diagonals in there just in case it goes over!