4x4 Action Group

As many things in life, starting with an innocent visit to my uncle (downscaling his house), offered me his trailer, with papers still in order, I had a quick overview looking with beer glasses and said, "That's nothing, I can fix it up quickly" ended up taking up my garage for a whole month, working after hours. Man! What a waste of time, something I am glad I did, but would prefer not doing again in the near future.

So here it goes, staring off with an innocent looking trailer, until you look underneath:

So flipped it around, bolted off the small bits and pieces only to find more and more rust. Removed the axle with wheels and leaf springs (560kg spring load)
Looking at various options to either to fix up the rust bucket or only create a quick fix and drive until the wheels fall off(too late I believe)

I decided to go ahead and cut out the complete bottom, because I decided to make my own ladder frame Chassis (50x50x2), cause why not...
Now started the fun part to Mig weld the body to the ladder frame... 3 days Later. Also having to mention that I used a product called "End-Rust" everywhere I did not cut out old sheet metal to prevent further corrosion and followed that by some red-oxide.

Noting that I decided to upgrade the leaf springs to new 750kg leaf springs from the old 560kg one, hoping the chassis might be a tad stiffer than the original one (1994)

So here are some interesting data points when building a trailer: Of what I could gather
- Measure the Main body and place the axles 100mm behind the center
- Let the loose end side of the leaf spring protrude 10mm behind the rear bracket
- Normal lights to be installed (make sure they illuminate the number plate
- 2 white reflectors in front
- 2 Amber reflectors on the side
- 2 Red reflectors at the back of the widest part(wheel arch)
- 7 Red reflectors at the rear or two triangles with red relectors (2 I believe)
- Reflective Tape over 80% of the side

Weld a 50x50x5 supporting angle iron to where the leaf-spring mounts will be added to distribute the load. Add back the axle assembly with new upgraded leaf-springs, new hangers, new 40mm bolt assembly kit
Taking 1.6mm flat-bar, I also riveted or at-least wedged the original venter hull between the flat-bar and ladder frame (70x4.8mm rivets)

Now time to check if the alignment was done correctly from the tow-ball to center hubs and bolt it all off again to be sprayed.
Using and orbital sander and taking off the hideous venter stickers, everything was prepped and sprayed, (Yes I sprayed the towing knob as well, because I was lazy)

Taking some bakkie liner I painted the front and the wheel arches to avoid massive stone chips.
I decided to sell the nose cone, I have other ideas for the front, and did not bother with painting the rims, as I am still on the lookout for some secondhand 13 or 14 inch rims.
Also I might need to replace my spare tire (18th week 1994) would not trust them.

Anyway, all wired up, took it for a test run yesterday, running well. Lets see if it will last another 30 years...

Costs:

Ladder frame - Time only
Paint - R280 + R250(Red Oxide)
End-Rust - R260
New leaf brings and assembly components - R1100
Lights, wiring, reflectors, reflective tape etc: R1200
Turps, Thinners, consumables - R300
Extras R500 probably

Was it worth it? Undecided. Will I keep it? Undecided. Is it strong-Hell yeah!

Luckily you had the steel, would have trebled the cost. And well done.

Very nice!!!

Nice job Peet.

Would be much easier…

Maybe just maybe this will motivate me to start on my rust bucket.

Or not.....

Well done Henri.

We should start a trailer resto shop: Rustbrothers