4x4 Action Group

There is a thread running on the "cannot be named" forum about overlanding for the more mature 4x4 enthusiast. The discussion has been about what can be done to help enjoy your travels as you get older.
One thing that was suggested to help locate large and heavy wheels on the hub during a wheel change was locating pins of some description. We used such pins/bullets to help locate and prevent damage to the threads on the engine mount bolts during an engine change on the aircraft.
I did a sketch using a spare wheel nut for my Disco for basic dimensions. The thread on the Disco wheel studs is M14x1.5. I decided to make them a bit longer than the drawing to help in removing them. I made them up out of aluminum as the aloy wheel rims won't damage them and so they are lighter than a steel set.
They work well on the test I did on the Disco.

It's a Land Rover so you will always believe it's kak.
This is what the wheel nut looks like.
Apparently the same design nut is used on some other makes 4x4's as well.

Mad Manny wrote:If the wheel nut includes the Threaded part to go into the hub, you bought a kak vehicle.
Good vehicles have Threads protruding on which to place the wheel.

Refer back to the photos. The location thingymajigs screw onto the threads of the studs. ie: the threads protrude.

Issue for alu rims is that it still is occasionally a little difficult to get the things to align nicely to get the lugs on. The lugs are recessed on the rim side (as per Paul's last photo) to align the alu rim properly.

In short: it can occasionally be a pita to get the wheel on again.

Ask me. I know.

OK, I'm confused.
The wheels is off.
You screw two of these on the existing wheel nut threads.
Then you pick up the wheel & it guides on easily.

Only problem, there is very little gap between the wheel nut Thread and the rim on my vehicle.
I assume the Landrover has a wheel hole far bigger than the Thread?


However, for Land Rovers with the set up described they will prove very helpful.

How will you remove them?
I assume you don't tighten then just remove by hand?

Manny if you looked at the drawing and photo of the back where you can see the thread, you will see that the thread of the studs are M14x1.5 and the outside diameter of the bullet is 28mm. The holes in the rims are 28.8mm which I suspect transfers to some imperial measurement. The rims locate on the outside diameter of the nuts which have a tapered end to help lift it up as you start screwing it onto the studs. You have to continually lift the wheel as you start the nuts which is a pain in the butt as Ian said.
With the bullet in place on two opposing studs you can slide the wheel onto the hub without the threads of the studs chewing into the rim. When it's now against the hub you can easily screw the nuts onto the remaining studs with ease. Then you unscrew the bullets and fit the last two nuts. Easy and without stress. Come visit if you want a lesson
For your vehicles type of setup the bullets will be very thin over the thread area so will need to be made from steel and not aluminum like these.

They will go for R550 a set. I'm waiting for the liquid to anodize them and then I'll have some available.

I'm going to make some steel pins for the Amarok that uses bolts instead of studs.

easy way to fit spare:
wear gloves
align wheel with studs
beat it on with Swahili dictionary

I've found out that the Toyota Fortuner wheel studs are M12x1.5, so now I need to find out what size the holes in the Toyota rims are. With that info I can start working on similar bullets for the Toyota owners.

joe wrote:easy way to fit spare:
wear gloves
align wheel with studs
beat it on with Swahili dictionary

This really made my day... Thanks.

Paul#25 wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 07, 2022 7:39 pm

I've found out that the Toyota Fortuner wheel studs are M12x1.5, so now I need to find out what size the holes in the Toyota rims are. With that info I can start working on similar bullets for the Toyota owners.

20mm Paul
But you'd need to go about 18mm max dia
18mm - 12mm gives you walls of 3mm

I'm busy with a set of pin in steel for the Toyota, Pajero and Ford size as a test. I'll make a second set in aluminum to see which are better. I'll post photos when both are done.

I've already made a set that fits the Land Rover Disco 2, 3 and 4 that are available for sale. The Disco 1 has has stud that are M16x1.5 where the later Disco's use M14x1.5

Finished a sample of each of the three most commonly used sizes. A set of two with the handle to help unscrew them after use will cost R550 to Club and Forum members.