DIY Farm buggy

[Ricof4e]

I decided to ditch the current frame - to much forcing and bending took place to make ends meet during the welding stage. I just do not feel comfortable.

Plus (and the main reason), I made a slight mathematical error in my measurements and now the fuel tank won't fit

I can mount the tank above the gearbox, but I think it may become a fire hazard. It has to be mounted in the front.

So I'll start over again.

[Apocalypse]

I decided to ditch the current frame - to much forcing and bending took place to make ends meet during the welding stage. I just do not feel comfortable.

Plus (and the main reason), I made a slight mathematical error in my measurements and now the fuel tank won't fit

I can mount the tank above the gearbox, but I think it may become a fire hazard. It has to be mounted in the front.

So I'll start over again.

While it's a pain, it's the best way. far too many people try and fix a f**** up - which ends up taking 3 times as long and 3 times the cost to end up with something that looks just like someone tried to fix a f*** up.

Start again is the way to go.

measure twice and cut once. and don't f**** it up again!

[Ricof4e]

Update:

Ditched the previous frame.

Started with the bracket for the fuel tank and made brackets for the seats. Figured I have to get the seating position correct before I determine the height of the dash and angle of steering wheel.

Got the seats from a scrap yard - think it was a 2008 Ford Focus. Got them for R350 a seat and they seem to be in good nick.

It did fit (barely) with some creative grinding and welding. But the important thing is that the seating is nice and high and can be adjusted and titled.

Did notice (as you may see from the pictures) the right front wheel is at a different angle than the front left one (If you face the car). Will play round with the tie rod ends to see if I can get them centered with the steering wheel.

Still struggling to get hold of an aftermarket brake master cylinder. Can't test the brakes with the current one - its useless. The previous owner did complain that air constantly seemed to get into the system and I suspect its a faulty MC.

Here's some pics. If it was not for the little guy, I would have gotten much further with the build. He is particularly fond of a 13 socket and my tape measure.

[Ricof4e]

I decided to ditch the current frame - to much forcing and bending took place to make ends meet during the welding stage. I just do not feel comfortable.

Plus (and the main reason), I made a slight mathematical error in my measurements and now the fuel tank won't fit

I can mount the tank above the gearbox, but I think it may become a fire hazard. It has to be mounted in the front.

So I'll start over again.

While it's a pain, it's the best way. far too many people try and fix a f**** up - which ends up taking 3 times as long and 3 times the cost to end up with something that looks just like someone tried to fix a f*** up.

Start again is the way to go.

measure twice and cut once. and don't f**** it up again!

[Ricof4e]

I decided to ditch the current frame - to much forcing and bending took place to make ends meet during the welding stage. I just do not feel comfortable.

Plus (and the main reason), I made a slight mathematical error in my measurements and now the fuel tank won't fit

I can mount the tank above the gearbox, but I think it may become a fire hazard. It has to be mounted in the front.

So I'll start over again.

While it's a pain, it's the best way. far too many people try and fix a f**** up - which ends up taking 3 times as long and 3 times the cost to end up with something that looks just like someone tried to fix a f*** up.

Start again is the way to go.

measure twice and cut once. and don't f**** it up again!

I hear you. Although I don't think of changing from the previous shape, I have learned a few lessons from the previous attempt.

For me to F...-up somewhere in the build is inevitable though. I have no experience with these type of builds and I am a putz with these things. I barely plan ahead and build as I see it. So its inevitable

[Apocalypse]

I have a good friend who is a very successful doctor. One day I said to him how impressed I was at his career and all the rest - my toys are kind of insignificant to life saving stuff he does.

His Comment was that I should remember that he got an F for woodwork and he's fornicating*** useless at anything else except being a doctor.

So he supports artisans a lot. which is cool.

He also makes beer. which is amusing for a Kidney specialist.

Anyway. my point being, you are a very good attorney, but you get an F for metal work

Joking - it's fantastic and it's the best way to learn! Brilliant job!







*** Manny says I can't say Fork on the forum.

[Oppies3800]

Rewarding

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[Apocalypse]

Lou wants a beach buggy.
She just saw this.

Fornicating hell....

[ThysleRoux]

Jou KAK is geboek Apoc!

[Reenen]

Ai, nou is Trevor ook betrek hier.

[Reenen]

Ek het ook 2 van daai beach buggie kak op my werf.


(As ek nie mag Fork sê, mag ek kak sê?)

[Ricof4e]

Finished the basic bonnet and nose frame tonight. Trying to take it slowly and not muck up big time.

I can testify: calculating compound angles with square tubing is quite tough if you don't do this sort of thing every day. Cutting it with an angle grinder is just as difficult.

Will post some pics tomorrow.

[Ricof4e]

A pic.

Next is the fire wall, dash and a bit of support beams here and there.

Both the bonnet and nose will be covered with checkered aluminum sheets.

[Ricof4e]

Some progress made:

Made a bracket for the fuel pump, steering wheel and brake fluid res.

Fitted the seats

Made a frame for the dials and buttons.

Finished the fuel tank bracket.

[Ricof4e]

IRO welding, I have learned that using different amp settings when welding horizontally and vertically makes one hell of a difference. Also, the angle at which you hold the rod helps control the size of the puddle.

For instance, I am using 38x38x2 square tubing. In the beginning, I welded horizontally at a set 65amps which worked well, but when I welded vertically, I burnt the one hole after the other. I just could not get the puddle stable. I then switched to 45 amps, using a 2mm rod, when welding vertically and had much better results. Also switched to 55amps when welding horizontally which made a big difference as well.

Further learned to tag at different ends before welding the whole seam. Heat distortion on 2mm thick walls, especially on compound angles, plays a big role. The whole idea of the frame is that it can be removed from the chassis by simply removing a few bolts and nuts. The idea is to remove the whole frame and twist it around to give me a convenient angle to fully weld all seams rather than getting into precarious positions and trying to weld upside down.