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Electrickery problem

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HenriSteyn
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Electrickery problem

#1

Post by HenriSteyn »

Guys.

I fitted a Victron 15 A smart charger to my Xplorer caravan. I have disconnected the original Hercules 20 panel's battery charger. Thus the Victron is connected to the batteries but the 12v Hercules panel circuit still runs all the 12v lights etc.

There are 4 x LED lights. These now flicker consistently. If I switch off the 220V supply to isolate the charger the flickering stops.
If I then switch the 220v on again the lights are bright and no flickering. Soon after they start again.

As the charger has a bluetooth app that allows me to monitor the charge phase I deduce the flickering is related to the float stage in the charge process.

By switching the charger off and on the charge program resets and charges full 14.4v thus bright and non flickering lights.

Any ideas how to solve???

Thanks

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Crips
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#2

Post by Crips »

As far as I understand it led needs constant current from a DC source (be it a battery or a transformer) or it will flicker.
So I would suspect the charger is powering the lights directly when on 220v as the charger does not give as good of constant power constantly than what the old Hercules 20 gave.

No idea on how to solve it though...

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HenriSteyn
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#3

Post by HenriSteyn »

I may have to resort to reconnecting the Hercules charger via a toggle switch. Use that charger when 220v is available and switch over to battery power in the Bush

Irritatingly that looks like it.

I was hoping some sort of damper filter thingy could be installed.

BushWacker
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#4

Post by BushWacker »

I run a midas Pcdoo8 intelligent charger for maintaining batteries that arnt under routine charge from car etc and it delivers a response charge in relation to the batteries measured state ... so no dont think it would work if the battery is simultaneously part of a light circuit load etc.
That said my HCDP DC-DC battery box in the car is permenenyly connected to my main car battery and hence the alternator ... whilst my fridge runs off it, the battery box. Generally the HCDP logic circuit dousnt conflict with the Snow Master fridge draw logic ... unless the battery gets a bit low then fridge keeps turning off even as car alternator is charging aux battery etc
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HenriSteyn
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#5

Post by HenriSteyn »

Thanks Chaz.

My NL Fridge runs off 220V if it detects a connection to 220V. I may just do that test to disconnect 220V and run it off the batteries. What I do notice is whenever I run the water pump the lights dim. So every time the fridge will start the same will happen. But I think that will be better than having the lights flicker irritatingly.

Also strange to note: I have a digital voltmeter installed outside the van. It only reads one decimal point. Casting my eye at it whilst the lights a flickering there is no variation in voltage noted. Thus the variation in charge must be less than 0.1 volt or it is current related, which is not likely due to minimum draw.

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