Cranky about Cranking Batteries

[Wooky]

Having a volt meter like you do is nice to have but take into account when you take your voltage reading.
I have a small Volt meter I plug into my cigarette lighter socket to keep an eye on the charging system and have noted some of my volt readings at a few repeatable conditions so that I can monitor for changes over time.

1/ First thing in the morning. Key in acc position only, before preheat or start.... Winter morning ~12.7V Summer morning 12.8 to 12.9V (batt is almost new)
2/ Direct after start.... 14.6V while engine is above idle while driving
3/ After 15 to 20 min.... 14.2 to 14.4V while driving 14.0 to 14.1 while at idle
4/ After 40 to 60min..... ~13.8V while driving ~13.6V at idle

This would indicate a fairly good charging cycle and deviation from this indicates issues in my charging system.

WRT smart alternators: https://www.redarc.com.au/alternator-vs ... alternator

[BushWacker]

Last night I simply smart-charged the battery
still connected in the car ... but wondering
whether the ECU , door lights , alarm circuitry etc , whatever ...
dont confuse that smart charger as its just an extension of a whole circuit ...
... so will disconnect battery and try again

Whats the thinking here ?

[Wooky]

Don't know the optimate chargers at all but would imagine that they should work with the battery still connected in the vehicle.
As far as I understand they are also maintenance chargers.

Maybe drop Optimate a mail and see what they say

[Wave]

So after this fantastic thread, I recalled that my 2nd battery in my car had corrosion on the 1 terminal, I stopped in at Battery Centre Greenstone and they swapped it out.

I will make sure that I put my batteries onto charge once a month or so just to make sure they are topped up with power.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S9 using Tappetalk

[BushWacker]

These Smart chargers , once connected, seem to assess and test the battery before applying a variable charging program so Im wary that program would be affected by even light loads in circuit...
My Optimate 6 is usually used to recharge disconnected batteries and seems to be fine for that though they have an awkward and confusing LED light ‘ dash’ ...
I had a PSD008 from Midas before and that was the best charger Ive had until some hobo broke into the substation down the street and stole copper buzz-bars or something and then the whole area. got pulsing 400v feed ...

[BushWacker]

Geoff ... maybe also check you have good connections on far end of your battery leads
ie to your starter and alternator and the earthing connections line from the battery and any engine-block to transmission-housing strap etc
Ive read that can contribute to corrosion and inadequate/suboptimal charging of the battery.

[Wave]

Geoff ... maybe also check you have good connections on far end of your battery leads
ie to your starter and alternator and the earthing connections line.
Ive read that can contribute to corrosion and inadequate/suboptimal charging of the battery.

I had the battery checked by them last year, if you look in the picture just below the terminal the battery is leaking battery acid next to the white Battery Centre sticker from the black round plug. They said if it continues they would swap it out. Keep in mind this is my 2nd battery not the main battery.

[Wooky]

Make up a nice thick solution of Bicarb and water.
Paint it all over the top of the batt and in and around the battery tray.
It will foam and go mad as it interacts with the battery acid.
Let it do its thing and then hose off with lots of water

Best way I have found to neutralize battery acid

[grips]

I was lucky to do Auto Electrical as part of my trade many moons ago. The older I get the more stuff I tend to forget.
Like said in the thread it will take about a 10 hr drive to fully charge battery. Running a vehicle short distances it will be a good habit to put the battery on charge over week ends.

The demand placed on batteries in modern vehicles is getting higher by the day and 12v batteries can hardly keep up. The is a huge push amongst manufacturers to up battery voltage to 48V.
As also mentioned in the thread is that the electronic systems will draw current when the vehicle is switched off. Very interesting subject.
Few people have found that, on camping trips, leaving a door open, even with interior lights switched off, the vehicle will not start by the end of the day.
The reason is that most systems are active and only go into sleep mode when the security system is activated.
In most of the latest models the entire system will wake up a few times in a 24hr period to do system checks.
If you leave your vehicle unlocked at home or while camping your security system will prevent a system shutoff thus drawing extra current and running the battery down.

Temperature is also a battery killer. Batteries can lose up to 40% of its efficiency in sub zero conditions. One of the reasons why part of battery specs is CCA. Cold Cranking Amps or CCA is measured at -18deg C for 30 seconds. Also a good indicator of the quality of a battery when buying one. The higher the CCA the better the battery.
If memory serves me right the ideal operating temp for a battery is 27 deg C. Heat also has a huge negative effect on batteries. At around 32 deg it can lose lup to 20% of its charge. Higher temps also enhance evaporation of the electrolytes.
Operating temperatures of above 41 deg C will almost halve the battery life vs one operating at 27deg C.
Internal temps of batteries can go up to 140 deg C in high temp environments. There is a very good reason why some manufacturers places batteries in special compartments or as close to the front of the engine compartment where it can be cooled by airflow. Some even moved them to locations like under a front seat or boot to escape engine bay heat.
This is the very reason why I have never installed a second battery in the engine compartment.

When adding all those spotlights and led-bars please calculate the extra load you put on your system as you can reach a point of discharging were your charging system cannot keep up to the extra demand.

[Wooky]

Good info thanks Grips...

I have had it on a few occasions where my vehicle has stood for a few days (3 to 4) while I have been off hiking only to come back to a very sluggish start.
Looking at getting one of these solar battery chargers from optimate https://optimate-battery-charger.co.za/ ... w-tm522-1/

[Wave]

On a side note, or more a question, back the the day, I was always told to open the battery cells when charging from a charger, does this rule still apply?

How does it work with a sealed battery? Are the newer intelligent chargers better and therefore no need to open the battery cells?

[HenriSteyn]

I think "sealed batteries" still have vents. Found this out when for some reason I turned one of them upside down and liquid came pouring out at one corner.

[Mad Manny]

Yes, most, if not all, have a cover or sticker that, once removed, show removable caps.
As I said above, the guy at Battery Centre says they had Flooded/Maintenance-Free batteries come in with dry cells.

So I'd recommend checking them every year or so...

[Mad Manny]

I checked the battery in Fearless (as promised above) it only has Toyota branding - but the shiny silver sticker covering the sell tops is EXACTLY the same as that on a Raylite.

Incidentally, basede on the info above I put the trickle charger on Fearless.
Now remember that Fearless last went on a longish trip 10 days ago & has only done occasional trips of 20 or 30 mins since.

The gauge on the battery charger was exactly at 'Half Tank' smack, bang vertical.
After 4 hours Fearless was fully charged (needle completely to the Left on the gauge).

Interesting...

[Wooky]

I don't really trust the "capacity" readings on any of the electronic battery monitors / chargers for a few reasons.
They give an approximation but should never be taken as the whole truth.

Reasons:
1/ They are based on a resting voltage test which is done after only a very short "rest" or while under load
2/ I don't think they are temperature corrected in any way ( although this might be done by some)

A better way of checking the state of charge (and the condition of each individual cell) is to use a battery hydrometer. It measures the specific gravity of the acid which changes with the state of charge. Very easy to use if you can access the cell caps and you have a flooded lead acid battery.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcFrUJHNo2M