Uniglide
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... Henris , how many km you motor in say, last 5 yrs ?
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... Veni Vidi Vici ...
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I presume this is on the Troopie. Probably about R150k...BushWacker wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 12:36 pm... Henris , how many km you motor in say, last 5 yrs ?
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- Chris Stoffel
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Metals do not absorb oil. A Timken tester don't prove much about what a lubricant does on the inside of an engine. It only shows that one lubricant lubricates better than another lubricant. And it shows that for 1 minute. At room temperature.henris wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:35 amWell Cris, and for anybody else that cares to listen. There are no solids in Uniglide. Thus no teflon beads.
The big benefit is that our formulae adsorbs to any metal. If you want to remove it, you need to take it off, mechanically. Sanding/machining.
Our "PH"(TBN) is 7. Thus it is totally neutral. Contrary to the other additives that add chlorine and are acidic. Extremely so.
It is also a rust inhibitor. Used in hydraulic systems extensively for 2 reasons. 1. To stop rust. 2. For the lubrication properties to facilitate in reducing the friction and bringing down the operating temps.
So give me the date and place and I will be there with a acid tester and a Timken tester. You are more than welcome to bring whatever you pick, as a head to head competition to Uniglide.
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Lets break this down.Chris Stoffel wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 9:41 pmMetals do not absorb oil. A Timken tester don't prove much about what a lubricant does on the inside of an engine. It only shows that one lubricant lubricates better than another lubricant. And it shows that for 1 minute. At room temperature.henris wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:35 amWell Cris, and for anybody else that cares to listen. There are no solids in Uniglide. Thus no teflon beads.
The big benefit is that our formulae adsorbs to any metal. If you want to remove it, you need to take it off, mechanically. Sanding/machining.
Our "PH"(TBN) is 7. Thus it is totally neutral. Contrary to the other additives that add chlorine and are acidic. Extremely so.
It is also a rust inhibitor. Used in hydraulic systems extensively for 2 reasons. 1. To stop rust. 2. For the lubrication properties to facilitate in reducing the friction and bringing down the operating temps.
So give me the date and place and I will be there with a acid tester and a Timken tester. You are more than welcome to bring whatever you pick, as a head to head competition to Uniglide.
Firstly I never claimed that the Uniglide is absorbed by the metal. I did however state that the Uniglide active component adsorbs to the metal.
Secondly the Timken tester has for years been used as a gauge.
Thirdly doing a test at room temp is ridiculous. Adding the friction to the load area chases that temp way past 200degC. And that is where the FRC excels.
Fourthly the normal oils will burn away by about 180degC. The Uniglide is still stable at 280degC. Adsorption is at it's best above 80degC
But why not put me to the test. You now have a real opportunity to leave me standing with egg on my face.
What test would you prefer to expose this "snake oil"?
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Adsorb - my mistake and apologies. I do not want egg on your face, not at all!
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This kind of stuff shows up from time to time.
I don't follow all the cases anymore, but as far as I know the US FTC has made every manufacturer of this kind of stuff retract their claims as unsubstantiated and pay compensation.
The Uniglide website doesn't say what based it's unique FRC is - but it will be either zinc or ptfe (or nothing at all)
PTFE is easy to disclaim - Dupont (the patent holders / manufacturers) made it quite clear that it does at best nothing and at worst is harmful to an automotive engine. The additive guys may not use the 'teflon' name at all as a component (hence the ptfe moniker) but sometimes use generic teflon under a different name claiming miracles.
It's a suspended solid, it causes oil filters to block and for sludges to form in the oil pan. When I worked at a couple of the works teams they tested it on dynos and it made no difference to power or fuel consumption and the oil manufacturers advised against it. Sasol did extensive testing on the dyno with F1 engines of the day and found no benefit over their normal oil.
there will be some testimony and endorsements on the products , but they will be anecdotal and not at all quantifiable.
Zinc whateveritis compound is present in most oils anyway. it does not block up oil filters. but more is not nessecarily better. If you are experiencing a low film of oil situation (like in the ball bearing test) more lead will reduce friction and do less damage, but twice the zinc will not half the friction, it's got upper limits - . but you should never experience that in an engine unless you habitually over rev or run out of pressure - and you need some oil on the surfaces, once the film has come off, the zinc is gone and you are onto full metal to metal anyway. it doesn't bond to metal parts. (unless you get it to over 400 degrees and galvanise it on) . It's very bad for stainless steel and chromed parts in excess as it's reactive to chrome, it will Fork up your catalytic convertor , and if your valve guides /seals are worn, it can build up on valves, plus and on rings causing issues. The quantity in the oil is very carefully considered by the oil and engine manufacturers. Personally I wouldn't increase that amount arbitrarily. Bike oils usually have a bit more zincwhateveritis in as over revs are more common but we are talking a very few ppm. Adding extra might well interfere with other standard additives that all work together in the oil.
A lot just have nothing in other than normal oil - pointless, nothing more than a placebo.
There is a famous Briggs and Stratton test where they got fed up of the snake oil salesmen's show piece at car and bike shows, which was to run a B&S motor for 20 hours with the snake oil, then drain it, and run it for another 20 hours without oil, and claim a miracle had occurred because apparently motors just explode without oil. (they don't - with the exception of those prone to exploding WITH oil in them)
Well, B&S did a test themselves with one new motor with the miracle stuff added , and one new one without. Both were run for 20 hours, drained, and both achieved the same miracle and ran for 20 hours without oil... when stripped the cranks looked the same, but the bore on the miracle additive engine was in worse state.
All I can say is that if a bottle of this stuff would increase engine life and performance as claimed, every manufacturer would be adding it to their engines, fuel consumption, service interval and engine life is a huge selling point for manufacturers.
Maybe it will work the same kind of miracles that 2SO does and get a TDV6 to keep it's crank in it's crankcase for what most people would consider a reasonable mileage before getting out...
here is an old, but good article on the subject - pretty much covers it all. yes, it's old, but how many times do you have to discredit the same stuff under a new name?
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-cont ... itives.pdf
I don't follow all the cases anymore, but as far as I know the US FTC has made every manufacturer of this kind of stuff retract their claims as unsubstantiated and pay compensation.
The Uniglide website doesn't say what based it's unique FRC is - but it will be either zinc or ptfe (or nothing at all)
PTFE is easy to disclaim - Dupont (the patent holders / manufacturers) made it quite clear that it does at best nothing and at worst is harmful to an automotive engine. The additive guys may not use the 'teflon' name at all as a component (hence the ptfe moniker) but sometimes use generic teflon under a different name claiming miracles.
It's a suspended solid, it causes oil filters to block and for sludges to form in the oil pan. When I worked at a couple of the works teams they tested it on dynos and it made no difference to power or fuel consumption and the oil manufacturers advised against it. Sasol did extensive testing on the dyno with F1 engines of the day and found no benefit over their normal oil.
there will be some testimony and endorsements on the products , but they will be anecdotal and not at all quantifiable.
Zinc whateveritis compound is present in most oils anyway. it does not block up oil filters. but more is not nessecarily better. If you are experiencing a low film of oil situation (like in the ball bearing test) more lead will reduce friction and do less damage, but twice the zinc will not half the friction, it's got upper limits - . but you should never experience that in an engine unless you habitually over rev or run out of pressure - and you need some oil on the surfaces, once the film has come off, the zinc is gone and you are onto full metal to metal anyway. it doesn't bond to metal parts. (unless you get it to over 400 degrees and galvanise it on) . It's very bad for stainless steel and chromed parts in excess as it's reactive to chrome, it will Fork up your catalytic convertor , and if your valve guides /seals are worn, it can build up on valves, plus and on rings causing issues. The quantity in the oil is very carefully considered by the oil and engine manufacturers. Personally I wouldn't increase that amount arbitrarily. Bike oils usually have a bit more zincwhateveritis in as over revs are more common but we are talking a very few ppm. Adding extra might well interfere with other standard additives that all work together in the oil.
A lot just have nothing in other than normal oil - pointless, nothing more than a placebo.
There is a famous Briggs and Stratton test where they got fed up of the snake oil salesmen's show piece at car and bike shows, which was to run a B&S motor for 20 hours with the snake oil, then drain it, and run it for another 20 hours without oil, and claim a miracle had occurred because apparently motors just explode without oil. (they don't - with the exception of those prone to exploding WITH oil in them)
Well, B&S did a test themselves with one new motor with the miracle stuff added , and one new one without. Both were run for 20 hours, drained, and both achieved the same miracle and ran for 20 hours without oil... when stripped the cranks looked the same, but the bore on the miracle additive engine was in worse state.
All I can say is that if a bottle of this stuff would increase engine life and performance as claimed, every manufacturer would be adding it to their engines, fuel consumption, service interval and engine life is a huge selling point for manufacturers.
Maybe it will work the same kind of miracles that 2SO does and get a TDV6 to keep it's crank in it's crankcase for what most people would consider a reasonable mileage before getting out...
here is an old, but good article on the subject - pretty much covers it all. yes, it's old, but how many times do you have to discredit the same stuff under a new name?
https://www.blackstone-labs.com/wp-cont ... itives.pdf
Last edited by Apocalypse on Wed Apr 21, 2021 5:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Chris Stoffel
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After all that have been said, use it don't use it. But use it at your risk.
Me? I can't even afford the stuff, so I am safe.
Me? I can't even afford the stuff, so I am safe.
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they do say a fool and his money are soon parted.Chris Stoffel wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:53 pmAfter all that have been said, use it don't use it. But use it at your risk.
Me? I can't even afford the stuff, so I am safe.
fortunately for you your wife has your money
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Joker! But yes. My wife have my money, and she looks after it well. If she would just give me some money for mud tires!Apocalypse wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 5:40 pmthey do say a fool and his money are soon parted.Chris Stoffel wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 4:53 pmAfter all that have been said, use it don't use it. But use it at your risk.
Me? I can't even afford the stuff, so I am safe.
fortunately for you your wife has your money
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I am saying the engine additive is snake oil. The spray thing I have nothing negative to say about. It should be the same type of thing as Q20 and all those aerosol can oils.
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