4x4 Action Group

Paul, here is another Paul that Youtubes some amazing content:

https://www.youtube.com/@PaulXchannel/videos

Maybe some ideas you can steal. I have a bunch of enduro bikers that stop over here to ride, pretty sure a lot of them pick up repair issues that need servicing.

I've just completed putting in all the wiring for power at the towbar for a trailer and a plug inside the vehicle. With the project being done on a Disco 2 similar to my one, I knew where to run the wiring.
The customer wanted a red 50 Amp plug at the rear of the center console in addition to the normal plug at the back. For this I ran the two 16mm cables through a rubber plug in the firewall and in under the dashboard. Luckily I know the trick to getting the center console out and back in without breaking it in half. I fabricated a bracket from the consoles metal support to attach the plug onto with just the end sticking through the ashtray blanking plate.
The two 16mm cables for the grey 50 Amp at the towbar run along the right chassis leg following the standard Land Rover wiring loom. I drilled and tapped two M4 holes in the 10mm steel plate of the towbar to mount the plug. The cables for this run are in a corrugated plastic tube to help prevent damage.
The positive feed from the battery goes first though a 40 Amp fuse and then to the cut-off switch that I installed in the engine bay. The two power cables then split off from the switch to their respective plugs. The negative cables are all connected to the standard Land Rover busbar just behind battery compartment.

I've been asked to look into making a set of my Wheel Locating Pins for someone with a Land Cruiser 200 with steel rims. All the ones I've made have been for use with Aluminum rims that used a shoulder type of nut where there is 3mm or more of material between the rim and the thread.
Does someone have access to a Cruiser steel rim that can give me an accurate dimension of the hole that the studs go through. I know that the studs are M12x1.5 so I need to work out if I can make something to screw over the studs but still fit through the rim.
The customer will have to take a wheel off his vehicle to measure it. This can only happen when he is back home again and I'd like to start looking in the feasibility of making a pin for use with steel wheels.
I can be contacted here or on WhatsApp at Zero83 three79 three471.
Thanks.

I'm busy sorting out a Conqueror Conquest that a customer bought recently.
The first job is to sort out the tow hitch. I've replaced the rubber boot, the bump stop, and the shock in the hitch. After putting the ball coupling back onto the shaft, I wanted to test the fit and locking over a towball. The fit seems okay but there doesn't seem to be be a lock to keep the handle down when it has closed over the ball. I've no experience with these plate type of hitches, so I need to ask the pool of knowledge on the forum for assistance. Does the handle on this type of coupler have any lock to keep it in place or does the design rely only on the spring tension to keep it in the down position? Any help would be appreciated.

I have no experience in those, but the hole in the handle must surely have a purpose?

Not that I can see Jakes.
There is a hole in both sides of the plate towards the lower edge that looks like you could put a pin through to prevent it from opening. I can't think that you would need to put a loose pin into the hitch to lock it.
I'd be worried this will open and unhitch on bumpy roads.

In these photos the hitch is clipped over a new 50mm towball. There are only the two red/green indicators.

Paul,

What make is the hitch?
ALKO or Knott? (Don't make fun of the order of the names you lot!)

Cheers

It's AL-KO Henri. I've always steered clear of these pressed plate hitches. They just seem to be a jippo way of doing something.

Thanks for your assistance today Henri. The information from your friend was very helpful.

I've recently completed the last two precast wall slat molds for a local walling company. I have the basic pans lazer cut and bent out of 3mm steel plate. I then add all the sections of tubing into the mold to simulate the cement between bricks on a wall and the frame work underneath the pans. These molds get a layer of crushed bricks into the areas between the tubing before the concrete mix is poured in.
The last photo is of one that has been in use for a while.

Yeah Manny, concrete cured in water is very strong and dense.

Paul#25 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 21, 2024 6:11 pm

Yeah Manny, concrete cured in water is very strong and dense.

Not everybody knows this.