4x4 Action Group

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:40 pm**

I think it would be too strong. If something breaks it should rather be the prop shaft than stripping transfer case or diff?

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:47 pm**

I'm not qualified to give guidance on the materials used to make propshafts but have had more than a few made for racecars. The rule of thumb has alway been that the larger diameter of the the tube, the thinner the wall thickness for the same strength. I'd rather leave the material specification to the people that know what they are doing. I have seen propshafts made of carbon fibre that could handle very high power put through them but brake easily when knocked from the side.

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 6:06 pm**

Wat is spoed van gearbox output?

Ek het n propshaft wat van pto shaft gemaak is. 5mm triangle shaft sliding binne n volg 5mm triangle shaft 1 size groter. So vir 80% van propshaft lengte is dit 10mm wantdikte... werk heel goed. Landbou heavy duty kruis. Maar ek raai die toy diff gaan lank voor die prop snap. Het hoeka klaar sy agter diff gestrip.... bleddie 8” light duty diffs

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 7:37 pm**

I’ve done it once on a V6 Isuzu that chewed prop-shafts before breakfast! Especially the front one!

Two things to consider:

The prop-shaft is often designed to be the weakest link, be prepared to fix other expensive parts if you proceed!

Thick wall pipe is interesting to say the least, to get balanced! More material, more things that can be out of centre! I got away with a front shaft that was only used part time at low speed, well below 120 most of the time!

I would be curious to know if you can get a longer rear shaft balanced that is used permanently!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:05 pm**

I build my own prop shafts. Use thick wall seamless steam pipe. Prop Shafts and UJ`s can never be the weakest link in a drive train. Snapped prop shafts or UJ`s can kill you. Breaking a prop at speed can knock a vehicle to bits. There were a court case against Ford many moons ago where a UJ failed on a new Escort. It dug into the tar and flipped the car killing the driver.

Side shafts are the weakest link. But then you only snap them with real v8 power..

Back building prop shafts. Align the, 100% with 0.001mm run out in a lathe and you need no balancing. See DVR is a member here. He share my views. He also build his own props.

Attached pic of me doing one for the little V8 Patrol

Also made my own adapter between Patrol prop and Cruiser H55 box

Posted: **Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:31 pm**

My plaasbakkie het eenkeer opteerpadge paalspring metvoortse kruis op shaftwat gebreek het...

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 9:48 am**

Ek het so 'n paar maande gelede ook my agterste "propshaft" verloor toe die "balljoint" van die boonste "control arm" op die agter-"diff" gekalf het. Gelukkig het die agterste kruiskoppeling gebreek en het die "shaft" heeltemal uitgetrek eerder as om in die pad vas te steek en deur die vloer te probeer kom. Die "shaft" het sulke "cartwheels" tussen die spitsverkeer gedoen sonder om aan 'n ander voertuig te raak en ek het dit in die middel van Strandweg gaan optel. Scary stuff !!!

Posted: **Fri Jun 08, 2018 10:50 am**

grips wrote: ↑
Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:05 pm
I build my own prop shafts. Use thick wall seamless steam pipe. Prop Shafts and UJ`s can never be the weakest link in a drive train. Snapped prop shafts or UJ`s can kill you. Breaking a prop at speed can knock a vehicle to bits. There were a court case against Ford many moons ago where a UJ failed on a new Escort. It dug into the tar and flipped the car killing the driver.

Side shafts are the weakest link. But then you only snap them with real v8 power..

Back building prop shafts. Align the, 100% with 0.001mm run out in a lathe and you need no balancing. See DVR is a member here. He share my views. He also build his own props.

Attached pic of me doing one for the little V8 Patrol Also made my own adapter between Patrol prop and Cruiser H55 box

Oom mag maar

Posted: **Thu Jun 14, 2018 2:38 pm**

Sorry Grips, was referring specifically to the front prop shaft used as the weakest link, they are normally not long enough to pole vault you.

Posted: **Thu Jun 14, 2018 5:18 pm**

Some years ago was half way between
Hotazal and Van Zylsrus and my back prop
came lose , universal broke and prop came
partly through floor in RR Classic travelling
at about 50... Oz ‘mech’ in Randburg who had put new back springs/shocks in for me never tightened bolts on radial arm ... and back axle swung back .
Took back prop off and just travelled on to Kalagadi
with only FrWD ...
(flat/easy areas only) and then on down to Upington where Mech shop made up new prop with piece of pipe and new universals and all balanced in a lathe type set-up...
just as photoes in prev posting
Losing prop and swinging back axle
at faster than 50 also means loss of steer ...
esp above 50 !

Posted: **Fri Jun 15, 2018 12:18 pm**

Hunter I have twisted normal prop shaft tubing with a v8 producing 600nm. To date I failed to twist thick wall seamless steam tubing.

Have had new prop shaft tubing in the lathe with a few mm of runout.

4x4 Action Group

Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad

Re: Making a propshaft out of round pipe :good or bad