4x4 Action Group

I am planning a 12V install in the back of the bakkie. I just cannot decide how many 12V outlets I should add. So far I am planning:
1x Lighter socket in canopy
2x Hella plugs in canopy
1x Brad Harrison in canopy
1x BH by the towbar
Permanent connection for the canopy lights
Permanent connection for exterior lights

I am leaving space to expand on the above but don't know if it will be necesarry with all the above.

I want to be able to charge phones on the lighter socket or run a 12V drill from the Hella. Spare Hella for fridge. BH for a 2nd battery or DCDC charger or small inverter.

Any other suggestions?



Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk

If you want to charge phones, rather than the cigarette socket, fit one of the dual USB outlet fittings. They work a lot better than a cigarette socket with an adapter in it.
If you are doing the installation yourself, I'd advise running one good size cable that has a fuse close to the battery and terminate it in a distribution box. In the distribution box you can fit a fuse panel with a fuse for each user system.

Good call on the USB and volt meter. I'll add that.

I have 25mm^2 cable that I will be using from the main battery that will be fused @ 80A or maybe a 80A circuitbreaker. The main cable will go into a waterproof box with glands sealing it. I also want to add a Amp meter to see the instant draw while using it.

Thanks



Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk

I'd rather invest in a 18v cordless drill and just recharge off an inverter on the BH/Hella plug when needed.

No reason any more to buy corded drills, especially 12v that can't supply much torque anyway.

And I bought a couple of combo pods at one stage: voltmeter, cigarette plug, 1 x 1A and 1 x 2.1A USB. Wire each pod onto and individual fused feed as per Paul's advice.

Having your blade fuse as close to the battery as possible. This rules out fires if things short.

In my opinion however, the biggest issue with DC wiring (when properly fused) is not necessarily short circuits. These are not an issue if you've located the fuses properly. It's rather hot connections - ie: bad connections. Should a short circuit occur and properly fused, the fuse blows and the fire-risk goes away. Having a bad connection somewhere, results in excessive head build up and ultimately a fire. In short: make sure your connections are crimped properly.

On thicker wire (like 25mm2), this can be difficult without the proper tools. Lucky you - I see that you also stay in Garsfontein.

I have a hydraulic crimper with dies, so just stop by if you want them nicely crimped. Bring a beer or two.

Li ion batteries are pricey but they are light and
recharge quickly off less solar panel time/area etc
Maybe consider them for auxiliary set-up ?

Price does not stop with the battery though as
one needs dedicated charging equipment for
Interfacing off alternator/solar panel/ mains etc

( The Victron MPPT solar charger/regulator is not too pricey, and facilitates cell-phone app monitoring of the charging and battery status… and possibly one can DIY transform mains feed to proxy as a solar panel feed to the unit eg for 100w panel ‘step-down’ to approx 20v 5A ahead of the victon unit and thence the battery ? )

Chas, are you perhaps confusing Li-On with LiFePo4 ?

The one is Lithium Ion and the other is Lithium Iron Phosphate...

Yes ... I should have respected differing Li technologies.
So more specifically in this case probably the LiFeYPO4 batteries.

I recently attended a BushPower workshop
on Battery options for vehicles with Jaques
in Mid-Rand.
He mainly markets Blue Nova batteries now
and thats what I have in mind for myself.
My comments were mainly drawn on what I heard
and understood there... but Im not deeply into
the electrolytic chem aspects etc but could refer you to
my son who is !

3 things I didnt like so much about the Blue Novas:

*The Price
*The fact that there a max current threshhold
which if overdrawn (eg shorted) the battery is ruined.
*The batteries state of charge is calculated rather
than measured as for Pb batteries. 'Monitoring' systems
measure charge input and measure charge output/drawdown and report the balance ,
... like BeanCounters would !

The media etc list the many pro's and advantages ... !

Samaya etc may also find chatting with Jaques
to be both enlightening and beneficial ?

2 websites below refer ...

https://www.bluenova.co.za/

https://www.bushpower.co.za/

jakeslouw wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 14, 2022 11:48 am

I'd rather invest in a 18v cordless drill and just recharge off an inverter on the BH/Hella plug when needed.

No reason any more to buy corded drills, especially 12v that can't supply much torque anyway.

Ah but you see I am all for reusing old tools... It's an OLD Ryobi battery drill. The battery died MANY years ago so I just connected a cable to it and run it off a 12V source - its powerful enough to drill a 10mm hole in metal. Stall current doesn't exceed 8A which is perfect for a Hella plug.
So its a corded cordless drill...

I bought a brand new 18V Ryobi cordless for R670 the other day and turfed the old Adendorffs 14v stuff in the project bin. Life it too short to fiddle with wires.

iandvl wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 14, 2022 12:02 pm

Having your blade fuse as close to the battery as possible. This rules out fires if things short.

In my opinion however, the biggest issue with DC wiring (when properly fused) is not necessarily short circuits. These are not an issue if you've located the fuses properly. It's rather hot connections - ie: bad connections. Should a short circuit occur and properly fused, the fuse blows and the fire-risk goes away. Having a bad connection somewhere, results in excessive head build up and ultimately a fire. In short: make sure your connections are crimped properly.

On thicker wire (like 25mm2), this can be difficult without the proper tools. Lucky you - I see that you also stay in Garsfontein.

I have a hydraulic crimper with dies, so just stop by if you want them nicely crimped. Bring a beer or two.

AWESOME! Thank you for the offer Ian. I also have a hydraulic Hex crimper for DC cables so no problem there.

Lol
As always
Good Advice Chas

Started with the control box in the back but ran out of switches. I bought the rest today and will show my proress over the weekend

I am looking at batteries and came accross this:
https://www.electromannsa.com/products/ ... on-board-1
https://www.electromannsa.com/products/ ... um-battery
You buy 4x cells, hook up a BMS and you have 100Ah 12V Lifepo4 battery. And for R5000 give or take. These wont last as long as brand new batteries referring to life cycle but they will last long enough for camping needs and MUCH longer than ANY lead battery.