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Can you run 2 x DC-DC chargers in series?

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Wave
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Can you run 2 x DC-DC chargers in series?

#1

Post by Wave »

Can you connect a DC-DC charger to another DC-DC charger?

Example:
It I have a DC-DC charger connecting 2 batteries together in my car, can I connect another DC-DC charger in my trailer to charge the 2 x 105ah high cycle batteries while towing?

Conneted:
Main battery - - -> DC-DC - - - > 2nd Battery - - - > Brad Harris plug (Trailer) - - - > DC-DC - - - > 2 x battery

I know you should ideally have the DC-DC charger connected as close as possible to the batteries that need to be charged.

Or maybe I've got it all wrong, would appreciate some input from the gurus
Geoff Craig
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Shane
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#2

Post by Shane »

I have no idea - but why are you considering it?

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grips
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#3

Post by grips »

That is not a series connection it is parallel in electrical terms.
Think it can work as long as the vehicle battery is the main source.
Just check your alternator capacity...
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#4

Post by tgwinduna RIP »

Geoff
hi and yes you can and it is very popular when you have a dual battery system and pulling a trailer with batteries on a DC to DC.
The best way is if your second battery is in the engine bay just take the power off the main battery direct to your DC to DC for your second battery, then run a second pair of approx. 100amp cables from the main battery to the back of the of the car to a Brad Harrison which will supply to your trailer.
If for instance your second battery is in the back of the car the you run your pos and neg 100amp cables to the back and at the position of the second battery you splice off the main cables to the battery and you can use 6mill and continue the main to the Brad Harrison, Note!! you are always using the main battery as the supply to the two DC to DC chargers, because the main battery is fed by the alternator and the alternator excites to start up the DC to DC and that is why there is always a 40 to 60 second delay after start. Remember all the DC to DC chargers get the power up from the donor battery (main) except the C-TEK which takes its power from the recipient battery which is crap, because should you run your other batteries down below 11 volts your C-TEK will not work, no matter what, not with solar or alternator from the car. The only way you can get a C-TEK to work again is to charge with AC or jumper the remote battery with a fully charged battery or from a vehicle using jumper leads. I discovered this at Tsendze camp n the Kruger and I left it to late to connect the solar panels.
My favorite DC to DC is the WRND from the Cape, it is compact, MPPT and Life Po4 (Lithium) compatible and most likely the best priced unit around.
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