Riveting Stuff ...

[BushWacker]

I'm looking into my options for better riveting
than the simple Pop-Rivet 'pliars' I already use ...
I'm mainly looking at achieving stronger and
neater riveting namely:
* to repair Series Landy Bodywork
( 2 types of rivets gen used )
* to achieve neater stronger riveting
eg 2-piece 'with mate' rivets
( as in picture below )

There is also , given below, quite a good website
of rivet types by hanson :

https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/blin ... te-rivets/

.

[Paul#25]

Aren't the rivets on the old Landies solid type Chas?
If you want hi strength rivets other than solids have a look for hi-lock aircraft type rivets.

[BushWacker]

I think they use both solid oval heads
and the more common blind hollow pop-rivets...

Im looking at getting a chisel-type pneumatic rivet gun but not sure if my 'Ross' Direct-Drive
1.5HP 50L compressor can deliver the business ...

Some details below ...
... but its probly Chinese so
multiply numbers by 0.8. !
I think Tank Pressure build slows at ~ 6 bar ...
... says 198L/min so say ~ 1Bar/min or 5.5cfm

Also want to know what other
pneumatic hand equipment it could run ...
.

[Mad Manny]

You'd need to be pretty stupid to buy a compressor & a pneumatic Riveter just to do one or two dozen rivets, at best.
So you should go that route...

[Mad Manny]

Personally, I'd buy Rivets closest to what Land Rover used & then buy a Lazy Tong.
The only negative with the Lazy Tong is you need space - but in your case, that'll hardly be an issue.

[BushWacker]

... I already have said compressor ...
and an unused basic spray paint set ...
... so considering pneumatic riveter &
maybe a small angle-grinder
type tool eg for cleaning de-rusting chassis etc
but, yes, will look carefully at Lazy Tong option.

[Paul#25]

That compressor might be too asthmatic for use with most air tools. You need a constant air flow of at least 8 cfu (227 l/min) at the desired pressure. None of the small direct drive compressors can do that.
There is a difference between the pneumatic rivet gun you need for this type of work and the pneumatic chisel that is sold by Ardendoff. You don't have the fine control on the cheapie guns that you need to correctly do riveting. You can try a flow restriction device like some guy use. The other thing you need is the correct dollies for the rivet head you will be using.

[BushWacker]

OK , thanks Paul & Manny ... looks like I should go the Lazy Tong Route for hollow blind rivets and then maybe briefly hire an air riveter & compressor for solid roundheaders ...

.

... that said a Landy Forum guy wrote :

" ... did most of the rear tub with a Lazy Tong riveter, was a bit of a pain and you have to be carefull of the paint. I have a compresser so went to Axminster tools and got their air riveter, what a fantastic bit of kit , it has taken over from my air chisel as my favourite tool.

If you are going for authenticity for the rivets down the side of the tub, and the rear light brackets should be the dome head ones, but not being a rivet counter i just used the blind ones.

The air riveter is soooo easy to use and you get in all the awkward spots you cant get a Lazy Tong in ... every time you pull the trigger its like kissing the lips of a beautiful woman ! "

[Mad Manny]

The Rep from Milwaukee tools came to see me a few years ago.
Showed me a batter powered riveter.
You load it with whatever rivet you are going to use & then fire away with the gun.
Simple pull of the trigger.
Once you are done, you empty the container holding all the left over rivet shafts.
Fantastic tool.
100x better than a lazy tong.
No manual labour.
Collects the shafts.
Self loading.
Batter lasts for hours.
No compressor pipe.
No noisy compressor running.
Silent operation.

R22000.00 back then.

Buy that if ease of use is your only criteria & cost effective solution means nothing...

[Paul#25]

For normal pop-rivets get yourself the pneumatic rivet gun like these from Ardendoff. https://www.adendorff.co.za/product-cat ... ivet-guns/
With pop-rivets your biggest problem is the bad quality of rivets that most places sell here locally. When you buy don't get the cheap supermarket stuff, get from a reputable supplier.

[jotto]

Get this instead - a bit more expensive but worth it:
https://toolservices.co.za/products/oub ... 7VEALw_wcB

Or the Milwaukee one is better:
https://www.upat.co.za/products/power-t ... rivet-tool

[Paul#25]

The plate in the photos above was one of the tests piece I had to do for my trade upgrade evaluation. All those rivets are done by hand without a rivet gun. You have to learn how to deform the rivet tail with a bucking iron and hammer before you can have a go with a pneumatic rivet gun. If you don't have the practice you will cause lot's of damage to the aluminum skin with dents you will never get out. Rather than battle with solid rivets use good quality pop-rivets.

[AndreasR]

But Paul. Where is the rest of the aircraft?

[BushWacker]

I would think good Pop-Rivets l, correctly
applied, should normally suffice for me, though where 'Blind Side' is visible eg inside of Series Canopy then something neater would be better.
Maybe will spend up to R1k on an Air Riveter
but more , is probly not warrated in my case!

Andreas have you done much riveting on Series
body work ? ... or only visual riveting on the form of the tender gender?

[AndreasR]

Chas. I have not done riveting on my Series and I never will because now I know there is a fully qualified riveter just down the road from me.