Maxxis Tyres

Quality of work....

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Prof
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Quality of work....

#1

Post by Prof »

I have a Daihatsu Rocky, and found another on Gumtree without a turbo and injectors. Initially I thought to keep it for spares for the other. (was told the turbo was giving issues and was removed for repairs and lost by workshop)
Rocky#2.jpeg
Rocky#1.jpeg
I a-framed it from Pta to Mossel Bay.

(I have the fender, it was removed to repair ding....)

I got a turbo and injectors from somebody here in Mossel Bay. Had it all checked out with Diesel injection & Turbo shop...new tips and turbo was fine. (just R4 000 later)

Between all my work I fitted all & sundry. Drained fuel tank....diesel was like a gel. Rinsed, replaced fuel filter & added diesel. (the clean variety) Expected the diesel pump to be full of gunk and hoped that running some diesel thru it would solve the problem.

It started with some help from petrol soaked rag held over intake, and ran reasonably fine. A slight misfire and that was attributed to bum diesel still in system.

https://youtu.be/yBsYIHt9feg

(sorry about the long delay, vid can be forwarded to 20s...)

Notice white smoke...distinct diesel smell.
Whilst on the drive the the car really had no power, didn't want rev high and on incline I had to engage 2L to get anywhere. And temp started to climb alarmingly. Stopped and wife towed me back home.

Decided to strip out radiator to have it checked and whilst at it take out diesel pump to have that checked and cleaned as well.

My first indication that something was amiss, I could remove the crankshaft bolt....with my hand. Image
Torque spec is 215Nm.
Pulley came of easy, just too easy. The key was in pieces, non existent. Pulley had turned on crankshaft. The key slot on pulley broken out and new slot will have to be cut. The turning of pulley meant that fan to water pump wasn't giving the necessary revolutions, hence the overheating.

Removed the timing belt cover& found this. All covered in thick black oil.
Rocky#3.jpeg
Further I found the bottom sprocket had 15mm play in either direction Image
Removed timing belt and bottom sprocket...again the key in crank was as thin as paper, thus served no purpose. Nice big wear in crankshaft. Image
Rocky#4.jpeg
And thus I am presented with a dilemma and only one choice...remove the crank to have slots machined at 180°offset and sprocket as well. (Rocky spares are not plentiful)

Now I understand the 'misfire', the bottom sprocket was all over the place.

After thinking the whole thing thru, I come to the moral of my story.

Rocky only has 143 000km on the clock and have no suspicion it has been tampered with. Sold thru auction.

Suspect timing belt was changed at 100 000km as per schedule. But crankshaft bolt was never tightened properly. For the next 43 000km things got progressively worse and vehicle started to lose power. All the symptoms I experienced.....misfire, smoke and no power.

The suspected culprits the turbo and injectors and those were removed....and lost. And in the end it might have been an incorrectly fitted crank bolt.
2009 Subaru Forester :twisted:

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Johannes
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#2

Post by Johannes »

So , who ever changed the timing belt was in a hurry ??

Estee
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#3

Post by Estee »

Johannes wrote:
Mon Oct 29, 2018 7:03 am
So , who ever changed the timing belt was in a hurry ??
.....like a Friday afternoon hurry

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ThysleRoux
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#4

Post by ThysleRoux »

Johannes wrote:
Mon Oct 29, 2018 7:03 am
So , who ever changed the timing belt was in a hurry ??
Or just plain incompetent :x
I refuse to be POLITICALLY CORRECT to impress others - Deal with it
FLEX is UNDERRATED :twisted:

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Paul#25
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#5

Post by Paul#25 »

I had a dealership cost me an motor because of a botched cambelt change. The gear on the cam wasn't tighten which caused the key in the gear to sheer off. This put the cam timing out and the pistons and valve had a party. Luckily it happened a week after the belt was changed. After the dealership told me it wasn't their fault or problem I proved the sequence of the failure. With the assistance of a friend at Fiat head office that I knew from racing, the engine was replaced at the dealers cost.
The humble person makes room for progress; the arrogant person believes they’re already there.
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Mad Manny
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#6

Post by Mad Manny »

I could tell you my SAC stories but this Forum doesn't have enough bandwidth....

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"No one ever got stuck - in mid air!"

2010 Fortuner D-4D 4x4 'Fearless'
2006 Conqueror Conquest 'Gearless'

Oppies3800
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#7

Post by Oppies3800 »

Mad Manny wrote:I could tell you my SAC stories but this Forum doesn't have enough bandwidth....

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
So start a new forum...?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Could this be sarcasm?

Prof
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#8

Post by Prof »

So parts have arrived for repairs.

Route that I am gonna follow.....remember this is not my primary or second vehicle, but my 'toy'

Not gonna remove the crankshaft....the oil seal is a standard 38/55/9, so gonna remove it and replace. Clean and sand (fine sanding paper) the exposed section of the crankshaft.

Some info...
The woodruff key sets the flywheel’s position onto the crankshaft. This is also known as “indexing” the flywheel to the crankshaft, or making sure that that the flywheel stays in the right position relative to the crankshaft. It’s important to note that the taper of the flywheel and the torque on the flywheel nut is what keeps the flywheel mounted securely to the crankshaft. The woodruff key itself does not bear any rotational or axial load, it’s only purpose is to index the flywheel to the crankshaft when the flywheel is mounted
Same applies to the sprocket & pulley. I got told by two old hands (Diesel injection shop as well) to not do any welding and machining on the crank. Said common issue on Isuzu's. (See Sakkie joined, Sakkie kom in asb....)

So after replacing oil seal, mix some Pratley Steel, fit Woodruff key with thin layer of Pratley, fill damaged part with Pratley next to key. Using water to smooth and make Pratley malleable, works. Slide sprocket onto crankshaft into place and do twist to the good side of the keyway. Leave overnight.

I sent in the diesel pump and some work was required. Replace and fit timing belt. Interestingly the spare parts shop found me some Tensioner pulleys and Idler pulleys, from Namibia nogal. (Bought two of each whilst doing the effort).

Same process for the front pulley, and then go to the 215Nm specified for the front nut.

I did buy the full gasket set for removing the crankshaft. But going that route could mean many other things....main and big end bearings, rings etc.
So I am game for the shortcut method.

Will keep posted. Will take some time as time at this time of year not on my side.
2009 Subaru Forester :twisted:

Prof
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#9

Post by Prof »

Report back...

I decided not to remove the crank, rather the 'short cut' method.

Fit new oil seal & then some Pratley Steel in key way, fit woodruff key & build up worn part with Pratley Steel. Leave overnight.
Next day is was nice and tight, no movement whatsoever.

Fit reconditioned diesel pump, and then fit the cambelt. That is not the easiest job...after first try (alone) I was one tooth out on crankshaft and tension on pull side all wrong.
Another hand needed, one to hold belt on repositioned crankshaft sprocket, mark where belt has to go on other sprockets with chalk, and then pull belt, turn either pump or camshaft sprockets and push belt into place. Tension the tensioner and all was fine. Deflection within specified range. Turn as to complete four complete cycles, no interference and on mating marks after each cycle :D

Now to refit the front pulley. Built up the worn key way with Pratley Steel...but there was still the issue of the worn crankshaft and worn inside of pulley. A shim was the solution...0.5mm shim to take up play, some copper slip and pulley on without play. The bolt got the prerequisite 215Nm (moer that is tight)

Refit all and sundry and now the bleeding the fuel system. After struggling with the pump on diesel filter, reverted to Coke bottle and pipe and gravity...started just fine. Swopped over to fuel tank and all was fine.

Walking around with a moerse grin on my face....

Vid of idling and rev...

https://youtu.be/jgauuVSIjyU
2009 Subaru Forester :twisted:

Prof
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#10

Post by Prof »

Hunter4x2 wrote:
Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:15 pm
Toss in a lexus V8...I hear those engines are cheap and you will have a lot of power to play withImage

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Naah...once a diesel man, always a diesel man :P
2009 Subaru Forester :twisted:

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grips
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#11

Post by grips »

Lekker Prof :lol: :lol:
You will never find me without Stroh or a 4x4 :D

Mike Nel
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#12

Post by Mike Nel »

Quality of work???

Let me tell you a quick story, or maybe not so quick

We had aftermarket PDC installed on the 200 Cruiser in January 2018 by Toyota themselves.

April. It starts acting up

I forgot about it to be honest and last week decided to get it fixed because it’s still under warranty

Toyota was nice enough to send a guy to my house to fix it. I get home and the guy is still busy. He waves me over to have a look, shaking his head.

From the little electrical box ( which Toyota thought was a good idea to put in the engine bay, which is rusted by now) to the speaker in the glove compartment, ran a cable which was mended no less than sox times. I kid you not

So. A cable that was mended 6 times and an electrical box which was actually suppose to be in the car instead of engine bay, you can say that quality of work was the last thing on their mind
2017 Land Cruiser 200
2022 Corolla Cross (Yes. It's a Hybrid)
BushLapa Ratel nr 731

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